A New Favorite Photo

Aura

Andrea came up from LA to visit me in Santa Barbara. She brought along her dog Mooie -- who, by the way, is incredibly smart and well trained. The two of them came hiking with Russell and I up my favorite trail, Cold Springs trail. Of course we had to stop at the natural waterslide - all three of us went down the slide and into the refreshing water below (note that this took place on Feb. 12 -- I love California!). There really isn't a better feeling, except maybe a steaming hot shower on a cold rainy night.

Paraty (Parati), Brazil

Igreja Santa Rita Panorama - Paraty, Brazil

After leaving Icaraí at sunrise, I finally made it to Paraty - and it didn't let down!

Paraty is set amid a cluster of peninsulas, empty beaches, and islands, with a mountain jungle backdrop. It is located on the Costa Verde (Green Coast), a lush, green corridor that runs along the coastline of the state of Rio de Janeiro, in Brazil.

Colorful buildings and cobblestone streets of Paraty, Brazil

Paraty is an exquisitely preserved historical gem, formally founded as a town by Portuguese colonizers in 1667, in a region populated by the Guaianás Indians. The colonial-era cobblestone streets and clean white centuries-old buildings with brightly colored trim are remarkable. The historical center is pedestrian friendly since no cars are allowed to drive through, although, like me, you may find yourself looking down to watch your step a good chunk of the time. It is also now a recognized as a Unesco World Heritage Site.

See my photos of Paraty on Flickr

Paraty is the jumping off point to visit the Cachoeira do Tobogã natural water slide (amazing!) as well as dozens of pristine beaches. The beaches directly in Paraty city are not all the spectacular, but Russell and I took a five hour, R$25 schooner tour that took us to two islands and two beaches (highly recommended).

Russell and I were very lucky in our timing - we visited right before the tourist rush of the holiday season. For us, the streets were practically empty - although I have heard that during peak season it can be crazy crowded - and pousada prices were pretty low (R$60 for a private room, including breakfast). Besides visiting the water slide and going on a schooner tour, we walked the historic center and saw some beautiful churches:

Capela de Nossa Senhora das Dores - Paraty, Brazil: Built in 1800 for the colonial elite. Renovated in 1901.

Matriz nossa Senhora dos Remédios - Paraty, Brazil: Built in 1787 on the site of two 17th century churches. According to legend, the construction of the church was financed using pirate treasure found on Praia da Trindade.

Igreja Santa Rita Panorama - Paraty, Brazil: Built in 1722 for freed mulattos ( persons of mixed black and European parentage).

There is also Igreja Nossa Senhora do Rosário e São Benedicto dos Homens Pretos: Built in 1725 by slaves, for slaves. It was renovated in 1857. Unfortunately we didn't have a chance to see this one.

I think two nights in Paraty was good enough for me. The couple we met there (a New Zealand fellow with his Brazilian/New Zealand wife) traveled with us to Trindade for the day before heading back to Paraty. For a lot of people Paraty is the perfect destination to hang out for a while since there is so much to do within reach of an easy bus ride.

Paraty is a great place to visit - historical, beautiful, easy to reach, and centrally located.

PS: After all the photobombing I did in NYC my karma finally caught up with me when I was photobombed by a dog! LOL!

Paraty Natural Water Slide - Cachoeira do Tobogã

Swinging bridge at Cachoeira do Tobogã

Finally it is time to write about my mini-vacation. Russell and I had originally planned on going to the north of Brazil, Jericoacoara specifically, but decided that instead of spending hundreds on a plane ticket, we would just take a cheap bus to nearby Paraty and spend our money on good food and activities.

Upon our arrival in Paraty, after dropping our things at a pousada and grabbing a bite to eat, we headed to Cachoeira do Tobogã - a natural water slide that I has read is a must see when visiting Paraty.

See my photos of Cachoeira do Tobogã on Flickr

Cachoeira do Tobogã is 10km inland from Paraty and was featured in the film The Emerald Forest. To get there you can catch any bus marked "Penha" (R$2.60, 20-30 minutes) from the Paraty bus station. The ride there is beautiful and when we went everything was green and fresh. On the way up you will see the entrance on the right-hand side of the road. You can't miss it - there is a large poster with a photo of the falls next to a white church on a rock on the right and a covered bus stop on the left.

After walking down a path for 5 minutes we arrived at the bottom of the Cachoeira do Tobogã water slide - a big deep pool with a few people perched around it taking photos of the locals. About the locals: Do not do what they do! These guys go surfing down the slide on their feet often doing jumps and spins. Russell and I stuck to going down seated, which was enough fun for me.

Under the waterfall at Cachoeira do Tobogã

There is the bottom pool which you splash your way into from the slide and there is a top pool. The top pool was shollow enough for young kids and older couples to lounge in and there is a nice waterfall that runs into the pool. This is the waterfall that you can hide under as water cascades down around you blocking you from view. Rumor has it that this is where slaves would hide for weeks as they tried to escape their colonial masters.

I noticed that many people just hung around the two main pools and slide, but we decided to go up the path a little further (and across the kind of scary swinging bridge) to explore and were rewarded with clear swimming holes and nobody else around. We took some time to lay on the warm rocks and take in the sounds of the running water and the singing birds. Although we had the place to ourselves I imagine that during peak season things can get pretty packed since Bar do Tarzan is nearby (which was closed while we were there).

Cachoeira do Tobogã was extremely refreshing, rejuvenating, and relaxing. It is an easy location to reach, it is extremely beautiful, and the water slide is a blast! I highly recommend it to anyone who visits Paraty.

Note: There are also a lot of lovely pousadas nearby if you are looking to get out of Paraty's touristy colonial center for a night

Panorama of the Cachoeira do Tobogã pool