2010 Lunar Eclipse and Solstice

Lunar Eclipse Over Icaraí Beach

This morning I got out of bed at 4:45am to watch the lunar eclipse (after not sleeping all night out of excitement and fear of missing it). This lunar eclipse is a special one - it coincided with the solstice - winter solstice for the northern hemisphere, summer solstice for the southern... Meaning today is the longest day of the year here in Rio de Janeiro!

NASA reports that the last time these astronomical events took place in sync was on Dec. 21, 1638, and it won't happen again until at least 2094 - making this a once in a lifetime opportunity for me.

See my photos of the lunar eclipse on Flickr.

The view was incredible of the moon setting behind the city and right after the moon was fully covered by the Earth's shadow it set behind the buildings as the sun rose from the East. All the birds and bugs began their early morning singing to the sun and Russell and I did a quick meditation session while the sun, earth, and moon were in perfect alignment.

Lunar Eclipse & Summer Solstice Meditation

View of Rio de Janeiro Across the Bay

Brazilian Golden Grass (Capim Dourado)

With Karine, wearing my Golden Grass headband and earrings.

Golden Grass (Capim Dourado) is a rare natural, organic and eco-friendly fiber found only in the Jalapão region, Tocantins, Brazil. It has the appearance of gold and continues to shine even after its harvest. The harvest, by law, occurs only once a year between September 20th and November 20th when the seeds are mature. During the harvest, the flowers must be cut and re-spread in the harvested field. According to the same law, Golden Grass cannot be commercialized "in natura" - meaning that it cannot leave the region without first becoming a handcrafted piece. This ensures that the traditional handcrafts remain an important source of income to many families in Jalapão region of Brazil.

Wedding party!!!

I saw golden grass for the first time three years ago in San Mateo, CA as a bracelet and fell in love with it. Unfortunately the bracelet was US$70and I had been searching for golden grass ever since. Finally, in Trindade, I found a bracelet for R$15. While there I also bought earrings, and ring, and a headband. The prices of Golden Grass are expected to rise since the growing region of Brazil has experienced a drought and subsequent fire (global warming, anyone?).

Those of you who know me, know that I like wearing natural jewelry such as wood and shells - Golden Grass has now been added to that list and is one of my new favorite jewelry types. I even wore my Golden Grass jewelry to the wedding of actor Jonatas Faro to actress Danielle Winits - and it looked lovely!

Trindade, Brazil

Natural Swimming Pool

After our time in Paraty, Russell and I decided to head to the paradise of Trindade. The New Zealand/Brazilian couple decided to take up our invitation and came along with us, although they made a day trip out of it while we stayed the night.

The bus ride to Trindade was 45 minutes of pure excitement - not the excitement you feel from anticipation, but more like the excitement you feel on a roller coaster, that fly by the seat of your pants kind of excitement. Bus drivers here go as fast as they can without tipping the bus, and the road to Trindade is one lane, with sudden ups and downs, and sharp turns. The driver was constantly talking to the money taker - with a sign above them that specifically stated, "DO NOT TALK TO THE DRIVER." Although the ride was wild the scenery was incredibly beautiful throughout.

See photos of my trip to Trindade on Flickr

Arriving in Trindade, Russell and I got a room at a beachfront pousada (only R$50!), dropped our stuff, and got to hiking the jungle/beach trail to the natural pool. The beaches we passed (Cepilho, Ranchos, Meio, and Cachadaço) were some of the most dazzling in Brazil. There was a great surf beach, enormous boulders, mountain and jungle fringed white sand beaches, and our trail that wound through dense jungle, only to be rewarded at the end of our hike by arriving at the amazingly beautiful natural swimming pool.

We spent a few hours at the natural pool exploring, swimming, and sun bathing. When the clouds began to move in a we felt a few sprinkles on our heads we decided not to take our chance hiking back through the jungle (with rain the already muddy path would have been rough, especially in sandals) and instead paid R$30 for the 4 of us to take a quick boat ride back to the main beach, where all sat down to sip some fresh juice... mmm suco de manga (mango juice). After our juice break we walked the really great couple to the bus stop and said goodbye as we each continued on our separate journeys. Meeting other travelers is great like that - you can hook up and travel together for as long as it suits you then go you separate ways when the time comes and everybody stays happy and grateful for the moment.

Jungle trail off Praia Trindade

Russ and I went back to the pousada to shower off then went to grab a bite to eat. We found a place that served a prato feito com peixe for R$35 - rice, beans, salad, french fries, and two fish fillets. Plus we each got a caipirinha (Brazil's national cocktail) made with local cachaça - really delicious. I am actually thinking about bringing home some cachaça just so I can make caipirinhas at home for my family.

After dinner Russ and I decided to take a walk along Praia Trindade - the long beach that the town sits on. A beach dog decided he wanted to walk with us and followed along the whole way, even climbing rocks with us! Along the way I spotted a jungle path that was so dense it was more like a cave. Russ and I explored that for a bit before returning to the beach to continue our walk, along with the beach dog, who only left us to check up on the very few other people walking the beach... he was like the beach welcome/safety dog. I think that is his purpose, to make sure all of us are all right. I have to admit that one of my favorite parts of traveling is all of the really chill street dogs that I meet. Every one of them is good tempered and some of them even play fetch!

The beach dog followed us everywhere.

Praia Trindade is littered with giant boulders everywhere, that are sometimes covered by the ocean water - it is actually amazing the amounts of water that come in and out with the tidal shifts in this area! I am happy that we were there at a low point so we had a huge beach to explore.

When nighttime was beginning to settle in we made our way back into town where I bought some jewelry made of Golden Grass. After our little shopping excursion we headed back to our pousada and relaxed beachfront before heading in for a night of restful sleep.

The next morning I woke up to a terribly infected foot wound so Russ and I decided to head back home so I could recover away from the sand and jungle.

What a great mini-vacation!

Paraty Schooner Boat Tour

Snorkeling at Praia Vermelha

After our first day in Paraty at the Cachoeira Tobogã natural water slide, we decided a nice, relaxing schooner tour was necessary for our second day. All schooner tours in town are R$25 for a five hour trip, stopping at two beaches and two islands. This is the basic tour - there are others that go to farther away areas around Paraty, but they cost more. For us, five hours blissing out on the water was just fine. Most tours include some kind of food - usually fruit. Ours had a bar on board and lunch was served for an added fee. The New Zealand couple also went on this tour, but they were very clever because they brought their own food on board and saved themselves some money (Russell and I shared a massive plate of fresh fried fish) and they swam in the blue lagoon while everyone else was eating - New Zealanders, they are the best travelers!

On the day of the tour the weather was perfect! A thin layer of clouds in the sky so it wasn't sweltering hot - just a perfect warm temperature. The water was clear and warm. I rented a snorkel mask for R$10 and Russell brought his own swim goggles.

See photos of my Paraty schooner tour on Flickr.

The ride out to our first stop was incredible. There are so many waterfront houses that are only reachable by boat and we passed Brazil's third most expensive island at $15 million - it used to be where the Portuguese would hold water and other supplies for sea journeys, so it already has a lot of infrastructure like wells, paved paths, and docks. Imagine owning a beautiful island like that! I am content sitting on a boat cruising by - because really how many people even have that opportunity... my life is blessed!

Underwater meditation at Praia Vermelha

Our first stop was Praia Vermelha - a nice beach for walking, swimming, and snorkeling. Russ and I spent our time jumping off the side of the boat a few times (Russ went off the second level deck while I only jumped from the main level). We also put my waterproof camera to good use. Unfortunately when I let Russell use my camera, which is waterproof to 10 feet, he got excited chasing a fish and dove down over 15 feet in pursuit of that perfect photo - and bam! Camera broken. I was able to take a few photos with it after it broke - the screen didn't work but it was still taking photos every now and again - but by the end of the trip my camera was totally RIP. Luckily the memory card didn't die and the photos that we were able to take survived. I brought my older camera with me (thanks to my mom for that great camera, which has lasted me years and years including 3 trips to Brazil and a trip to Mexico). My waterproof camera was really great while it lasted and I will get another one since it is so good for traveling, but next time I will either get one that goes deeper or I just won't let Russ use it!

Fish at the natural aquarium

After Praia Vermelha we went to something the the captain (oh, and the captain played guitar, sang, and gave info on all the surroundings - really talented guy!) called the Natural Aquarium. And I can see why - hundreds of fish everywhere! There were already a bunch of fish around, but then they threw in some food and I'm telling you there were more fish than water! Too bad my camera couldn't go in the water! Oh well at least I got one shot from above! I too the opportunity to snorkel with all the fish danging around me. It was really a great time.

The Blue Lagoon

Next we headed to the Blue Lagoon. It is not actually a lagoon, but the waters are very calm and extremely vivid blue - imagine the clearest blue sky you have ever seen, enhance it by 10, and add a dash of turquoise... that is the blue lagoon. Here is where we are lunch. New Zealand, as we called him before learning his name, which I won't publish here since I never asked permission, went for a swim and snorkel while everyone else ate. Russell was inspired by New Zealand, though, and said that like New Zealand, he wanted to swim at every stop, and so he did. I waited for my food to digest and by the time I was ready to dive in the captain blew the whistle signaling our departure.. oh well.

Next was another beach, whose name escapes me. This was my least favorite stop, the beach was nice enough but there was some trash on the beach and the water wasn't as clear. Russell and I took a walk on the beach then I spent the rest of the time swimming around like a fish. The water was just too perfect. After that it was time to head back.

Paraty (Parati), Brazil

Igreja Santa Rita Panorama - Paraty, Brazil

After leaving Icaraí at sunrise, I finally made it to Paraty - and it didn't let down!

Paraty is set amid a cluster of peninsulas, empty beaches, and islands, with a mountain jungle backdrop. It is located on the Costa Verde (Green Coast), a lush, green corridor that runs along the coastline of the state of Rio de Janeiro, in Brazil.

Colorful buildings and cobblestone streets of Paraty, Brazil

Paraty is an exquisitely preserved historical gem, formally founded as a town by Portuguese colonizers in 1667, in a region populated by the Guaianás Indians. The colonial-era cobblestone streets and clean white centuries-old buildings with brightly colored trim are remarkable. The historical center is pedestrian friendly since no cars are allowed to drive through, although, like me, you may find yourself looking down to watch your step a good chunk of the time. It is also now a recognized as a Unesco World Heritage Site.

See my photos of Paraty on Flickr

Paraty is the jumping off point to visit the Cachoeira do Tobogã natural water slide (amazing!) as well as dozens of pristine beaches. The beaches directly in Paraty city are not all the spectacular, but Russell and I took a five hour, R$25 schooner tour that took us to two islands and two beaches (highly recommended).

Russell and I were very lucky in our timing - we visited right before the tourist rush of the holiday season. For us, the streets were practically empty - although I have heard that during peak season it can be crazy crowded - and pousada prices were pretty low (R$60 for a private room, including breakfast). Besides visiting the water slide and going on a schooner tour, we walked the historic center and saw some beautiful churches:

Capela de Nossa Senhora das Dores - Paraty, Brazil: Built in 1800 for the colonial elite. Renovated in 1901.

Matriz nossa Senhora dos Remédios - Paraty, Brazil: Built in 1787 on the site of two 17th century churches. According to legend, the construction of the church was financed using pirate treasure found on Praia da Trindade.

Igreja Santa Rita Panorama - Paraty, Brazil: Built in 1722 for freed mulattos ( persons of mixed black and European parentage).

There is also Igreja Nossa Senhora do Rosário e São Benedicto dos Homens Pretos: Built in 1725 by slaves, for slaves. It was renovated in 1857. Unfortunately we didn't have a chance to see this one.

I think two nights in Paraty was good enough for me. The couple we met there (a New Zealand fellow with his Brazilian/New Zealand wife) traveled with us to Trindade for the day before heading back to Paraty. For a lot of people Paraty is the perfect destination to hang out for a while since there is so much to do within reach of an easy bus ride.

Paraty is a great place to visit - historical, beautiful, easy to reach, and centrally located.

PS: After all the photobombing I did in NYC my karma finally caught up with me when I was photobombed by a dog! LOL!

Mayor of Rio Visits Complexo da Penha to Meet With Leaders

This is a good sign! Rio de Janeiro Mayor Eduardo Paes went to the recently invaded Complexo da Penha in Villa Cruzeiro to meet with 12 local leaders to discuss what social services residents feel should be made priorities in the wake of the R$400 million (US$231 million) that was just promised to Vila Cruzeiro. The top issues were health care, slope stabilization, and establishment of nurseries.

Read the full article on O Globo

Favela de Mandela Raided

Favela Mandela was raided by 50 police early this Friday morning. Fugitive and trafficker Eduardo da Penha Queiroz was arrested and a 12 gauge shotgun, 7.62 caliber ammunition, marijuana, crack, cheirinho da loló (a drug based on a mixture of ethyl alcohol or benzene, chloroform, ether (all of which are carcinogens) and essence of fruit), and two stolen motorcycles were seized.

Upon entry there was an intense gun fight between traffickers in the community and police on foot and in the air.

Nine other fugitives who had previously fled from Penha and Alemão were arrested during operation in Manguinhos the previous Thursday.

Read full article via O Globo

Paraty Natural Water Slide - Cachoeira do Tobogã

Swinging bridge at Cachoeira do Tobogã

Finally it is time to write about my mini-vacation. Russell and I had originally planned on going to the north of Brazil, Jericoacoara specifically, but decided that instead of spending hundreds on a plane ticket, we would just take a cheap bus to nearby Paraty and spend our money on good food and activities.

Upon our arrival in Paraty, after dropping our things at a pousada and grabbing a bite to eat, we headed to Cachoeira do Tobogã - a natural water slide that I has read is a must see when visiting Paraty.

See my photos of Cachoeira do Tobogã on Flickr

Cachoeira do Tobogã is 10km inland from Paraty and was featured in the film The Emerald Forest. To get there you can catch any bus marked "Penha" (R$2.60, 20-30 minutes) from the Paraty bus station. The ride there is beautiful and when we went everything was green and fresh. On the way up you will see the entrance on the right-hand side of the road. You can't miss it - there is a large poster with a photo of the falls next to a white church on a rock on the right and a covered bus stop on the left.

After walking down a path for 5 minutes we arrived at the bottom of the Cachoeira do Tobogã water slide - a big deep pool with a few people perched around it taking photos of the locals. About the locals: Do not do what they do! These guys go surfing down the slide on their feet often doing jumps and spins. Russell and I stuck to going down seated, which was enough fun for me.

Under the waterfall at Cachoeira do Tobogã

There is the bottom pool which you splash your way into from the slide and there is a top pool. The top pool was shollow enough for young kids and older couples to lounge in and there is a nice waterfall that runs into the pool. This is the waterfall that you can hide under as water cascades down around you blocking you from view. Rumor has it that this is where slaves would hide for weeks as they tried to escape their colonial masters.

I noticed that many people just hung around the two main pools and slide, but we decided to go up the path a little further (and across the kind of scary swinging bridge) to explore and were rewarded with clear swimming holes and nobody else around. We took some time to lay on the warm rocks and take in the sounds of the running water and the singing birds. Although we had the place to ourselves I imagine that during peak season things can get pretty packed since Bar do Tarzan is nearby (which was closed while we were there).

Cachoeira do Tobogã was extremely refreshing, rejuvenating, and relaxing. It is an easy location to reach, it is extremely beautiful, and the water slide is a blast! I highly recommend it to anyone who visits Paraty.

Note: There are also a lot of lovely pousadas nearby if you are looking to get out of Paraty's touristy colonial center for a night

Panorama of the Cachoeira do Tobogã pool

Brazilian Bikini Shopping in Cabo Frio

Praia do Forte - Cabo Frio, Brazil

I had been looking for some good, reasonably priced bikinis for a while. C&A has decently priced bikinis, but last time I bought from there the plastic snap on top broke within a week (I tied it together with hemp string to save it) and all boutiques in Icaraí are ridiculously expensive. Who pays R$250+ (~US$150) for a bikini anyway? Aquamar, the cheapest bikini boutique around, is where I got my last few bikinis, but when I went there with Russell's dad he laughed at the prices (R$110) and said I could find the exact same thing in Cabo Frio for a fraction of the price. I had been wanting to go to Cabo Frio anyway, so Russ and I took a day trip there to get in some beach time as well as bikini shopping!

Photos: Cabo Frio day trip on Flickr

On the way there we stopped to grab some amazing pastels. I got what I like to call a Margarita Pastel - mozzarella cheese, oregano, and tomato - all inside a thin crispy crust...mmmmm.... Plus whenever we have pastels we always get a caldo de cana (sugarcane juice). So good. After our quick stop we were on our way to Cabo Frio.

Enjoying the Cabo Frio riverfront

When we arrived we immediately hit the beach for sun and swim. The water was clear and warm like most beaches here. We only stayed at the beach for 45 minutes before we got hungry again and grabbed some sardinhas (photo) - little deep fried sardines - and beer. After out mini fish feast it was time for shopping!

I was expecting bikini prices here to be low, but I never though they would be as low are they were. Only R$15 (US$9) per piece! I was able to buy one black top and three matching bottoms for R$60, cheaper than one bikini at Aquamar - amazing! Now I have a handful of Brazilian Bikinis to keep me satisfied for a while. I really wish I would have bought more though, especially another top - I have not found a top that is so cute and comfortable at the same time.

Now you know: if you ever go to Rio and are looking for a bikini, head to Cabo Frio. It is an easy drive or bus ride away and a very nice day trip!

Heavy Rain in Rio de Janeiro Floods Streets

Flooded street in Icaraí

Last night, after Fluminense (a Rio soccer team) won the Brazilian Soccer Championship, the festivities were cut short due to an incredible storm that came through Rio de Janeiro. Within an hour streets around Rio and Niterói were flooded with up to three feet of water (between 7pm and midnight over six inches of rain fell in some areas).

Russell and I were walking down the beach from his dad's house to his mom's house when the rain started. We ended up stranded at his mom's house for the night because the entire road in front of of the complex was flooded - not even buses were passing, and that is saying a lot because buses will generally go anywhere regardless of weather. A few drivers tried to go through the rising water - all except for a large truck were stopped in their tracks and the drivers had to get help from passer-bys (sometimes offering money) to push their cars out of the water. Some of the cars that were parked on the street are surely destroyed. One brand new Honda was covered over its tires with water and when that large truck passed by it began floating on top of the massive wave that was created.

Many people waded through the flooded street to get to wherever they needed to be. Some women were up to their waists in water. The most heart-breaking thing came when a family of homeless people begged and pleaded for shelter under the building, but they were turned away by the doorman. I can't even begin to imagine what it must be like being homeless, in a downpour, wet from head to toe, and no place dry to lay your head down. I also wonder if any favelas fell.

December is the month of pulverization for favelas. This time last year is when the state of Rio was in a state of emergency due to all of the landslides that killed hundreds and blocked roads for weeks - they are still dealing with these landslides today, we saw many of them on our way to Paraty. Everybody is saying that yesterday's storm was just an introduction for what is to come.

Lightning in Icaraí

On the bright side, all of the lightning was very beautiful. There were strikes at least every 20 seconds. There was a huge amount of lightning all night long. I have never seen a lightning storm last for so long. It was incredibly beautiful and only added to the power of the storm.

There is supposed to be another one coming tonight... I don't know if it will be as strong. Rather than the normally hot days and rainy nights, yesterday's storm came after 3-4 dry days and nights, so I think all the rain from the previous days were just packed into one punch. I guess I'll find out tonight! Pray for all the people on the hills and on the street.

Research shows that 88% of Rio's population support the measures being taken against trafficking

Article translated from O Globo

A survey by Ibope Intelligence shows that 88% of the population supports the measures being taken against drug trafficking. According to the survey, 49% of respondents said they fully endorse the measures against trafficking, other 7% do not approve and or disapprove, and 3% disagree with the actions.

Thousand residents in the state, all aged above 16 years were interviewed between 27 and 29 November. The margin of error is three percentage points.

The vast majority of people who participated in the survey also said they were confident in the ability of police to repress the action of the outlaws: 82% believe the police are capable.

About the feeling of safety with measures adopted, 41% of people said they feel safe against 30% who say they are unsafe. Another 26% said they feel neither safe nor unsafe.

The research also revealed that 70% believed that Rio will be a safer place by the end of the operation against trafficking. For 17%, the stock does not make a difference. Another 6% said the river will become more insecure.

About the difficulty of moving through the city because of violence, 69% reported having faced the problem and 31% claimed to have had some difficulty.

The vast majority (93%) of respondents supported the participation of the armed forces. The residents of Rio are also optimistic about the city's image abroad after the operation: 69% believe that the image is better (and 22% believe it will be much better), 15% believe that the picture will get worse and 11% think that it makes no difference.

The interviewees, however, said they believed the events would hinder the achievement of the 2014 World Cup and Olympic Games 2016: 54% of people believe to be harmful (including 18% say it hurt a lot) and 41% trust that no harm at all.

Full research report, pdf