Sunset from Goleta Beach

Sunset from Goleta Beach

After I took this photo today at Goleta Beach, I got in my car and drove to the store. While I was paying I noticed that my camera wasn't in my purse and figured that it must be in my car. I walked out to the parking lot and there was my camera - sitting on the roof. And to think.. I could have easily lost this nice photo!

2010 Lunar Eclipse and Solstice

Lunar Eclipse Over Icaraí Beach

This morning I got out of bed at 4:45am to watch the lunar eclipse (after not sleeping all night out of excitement and fear of missing it). This lunar eclipse is a special one - it coincided with the solstice - winter solstice for the northern hemisphere, summer solstice for the southern... Meaning today is the longest day of the year here in Rio de Janeiro!

NASA reports that the last time these astronomical events took place in sync was on Dec. 21, 1638, and it won't happen again until at least 2094 - making this a once in a lifetime opportunity for me.

See my photos of the lunar eclipse on Flickr.

The view was incredible of the moon setting behind the city and right after the moon was fully covered by the Earth's shadow it set behind the buildings as the sun rose from the East. All the birds and bugs began their early morning singing to the sun and Russell and I did a quick meditation session while the sun, earth, and moon were in perfect alignment.

Lunar Eclipse & Summer Solstice Meditation

View of Rio de Janeiro Across the Bay

Trindade, Brazil

Natural Swimming Pool

After our time in Paraty, Russell and I decided to head to the paradise of Trindade. The New Zealand/Brazilian couple decided to take up our invitation and came along with us, although they made a day trip out of it while we stayed the night.

The bus ride to Trindade was 45 minutes of pure excitement - not the excitement you feel from anticipation, but more like the excitement you feel on a roller coaster, that fly by the seat of your pants kind of excitement. Bus drivers here go as fast as they can without tipping the bus, and the road to Trindade is one lane, with sudden ups and downs, and sharp turns. The driver was constantly talking to the money taker - with a sign above them that specifically stated, "DO NOT TALK TO THE DRIVER." Although the ride was wild the scenery was incredibly beautiful throughout.

See photos of my trip to Trindade on Flickr

Arriving in Trindade, Russell and I got a room at a beachfront pousada (only R$50!), dropped our stuff, and got to hiking the jungle/beach trail to the natural pool. The beaches we passed (Cepilho, Ranchos, Meio, and Cachadaço) were some of the most dazzling in Brazil. There was a great surf beach, enormous boulders, mountain and jungle fringed white sand beaches, and our trail that wound through dense jungle, only to be rewarded at the end of our hike by arriving at the amazingly beautiful natural swimming pool.

We spent a few hours at the natural pool exploring, swimming, and sun bathing. When the clouds began to move in a we felt a few sprinkles on our heads we decided not to take our chance hiking back through the jungle (with rain the already muddy path would have been rough, especially in sandals) and instead paid R$30 for the 4 of us to take a quick boat ride back to the main beach, where all sat down to sip some fresh juice... mmm suco de manga (mango juice). After our juice break we walked the really great couple to the bus stop and said goodbye as we each continued on our separate journeys. Meeting other travelers is great like that - you can hook up and travel together for as long as it suits you then go you separate ways when the time comes and everybody stays happy and grateful for the moment.

Jungle trail off Praia Trindade

Russ and I went back to the pousada to shower off then went to grab a bite to eat. We found a place that served a prato feito com peixe for R$35 - rice, beans, salad, french fries, and two fish fillets. Plus we each got a caipirinha (Brazil's national cocktail) made with local cachaça - really delicious. I am actually thinking about bringing home some cachaça just so I can make caipirinhas at home for my family.

After dinner Russ and I decided to take a walk along Praia Trindade - the long beach that the town sits on. A beach dog decided he wanted to walk with us and followed along the whole way, even climbing rocks with us! Along the way I spotted a jungle path that was so dense it was more like a cave. Russ and I explored that for a bit before returning to the beach to continue our walk, along with the beach dog, who only left us to check up on the very few other people walking the beach... he was like the beach welcome/safety dog. I think that is his purpose, to make sure all of us are all right. I have to admit that one of my favorite parts of traveling is all of the really chill street dogs that I meet. Every one of them is good tempered and some of them even play fetch!

The beach dog followed us everywhere.

Praia Trindade is littered with giant boulders everywhere, that are sometimes covered by the ocean water - it is actually amazing the amounts of water that come in and out with the tidal shifts in this area! I am happy that we were there at a low point so we had a huge beach to explore.

When nighttime was beginning to settle in we made our way back into town where I bought some jewelry made of Golden Grass. After our little shopping excursion we headed back to our pousada and relaxed beachfront before heading in for a night of restful sleep.

The next morning I woke up to a terribly infected foot wound so Russ and I decided to head back home so I could recover away from the sand and jungle.

What a great mini-vacation!

Paraty Schooner Boat Tour

Snorkeling at Praia Vermelha

After our first day in Paraty at the Cachoeira Tobogã natural water slide, we decided a nice, relaxing schooner tour was necessary for our second day. All schooner tours in town are R$25 for a five hour trip, stopping at two beaches and two islands. This is the basic tour - there are others that go to farther away areas around Paraty, but they cost more. For us, five hours blissing out on the water was just fine. Most tours include some kind of food - usually fruit. Ours had a bar on board and lunch was served for an added fee. The New Zealand couple also went on this tour, but they were very clever because they brought their own food on board and saved themselves some money (Russell and I shared a massive plate of fresh fried fish) and they swam in the blue lagoon while everyone else was eating - New Zealanders, they are the best travelers!

On the day of the tour the weather was perfect! A thin layer of clouds in the sky so it wasn't sweltering hot - just a perfect warm temperature. The water was clear and warm. I rented a snorkel mask for R$10 and Russell brought his own swim goggles.

See photos of my Paraty schooner tour on Flickr.

The ride out to our first stop was incredible. There are so many waterfront houses that are only reachable by boat and we passed Brazil's third most expensive island at $15 million - it used to be where the Portuguese would hold water and other supplies for sea journeys, so it already has a lot of infrastructure like wells, paved paths, and docks. Imagine owning a beautiful island like that! I am content sitting on a boat cruising by - because really how many people even have that opportunity... my life is blessed!

Underwater meditation at Praia Vermelha

Our first stop was Praia Vermelha - a nice beach for walking, swimming, and snorkeling. Russ and I spent our time jumping off the side of the boat a few times (Russ went off the second level deck while I only jumped from the main level). We also put my waterproof camera to good use. Unfortunately when I let Russell use my camera, which is waterproof to 10 feet, he got excited chasing a fish and dove down over 15 feet in pursuit of that perfect photo - and bam! Camera broken. I was able to take a few photos with it after it broke - the screen didn't work but it was still taking photos every now and again - but by the end of the trip my camera was totally RIP. Luckily the memory card didn't die and the photos that we were able to take survived. I brought my older camera with me (thanks to my mom for that great camera, which has lasted me years and years including 3 trips to Brazil and a trip to Mexico). My waterproof camera was really great while it lasted and I will get another one since it is so good for traveling, but next time I will either get one that goes deeper or I just won't let Russ use it!

Fish at the natural aquarium

After Praia Vermelha we went to something the the captain (oh, and the captain played guitar, sang, and gave info on all the surroundings - really talented guy!) called the Natural Aquarium. And I can see why - hundreds of fish everywhere! There were already a bunch of fish around, but then they threw in some food and I'm telling you there were more fish than water! Too bad my camera couldn't go in the water! Oh well at least I got one shot from above! I too the opportunity to snorkel with all the fish danging around me. It was really a great time.

The Blue Lagoon

Next we headed to the Blue Lagoon. It is not actually a lagoon, but the waters are very calm and extremely vivid blue - imagine the clearest blue sky you have ever seen, enhance it by 10, and add a dash of turquoise... that is the blue lagoon. Here is where we are lunch. New Zealand, as we called him before learning his name, which I won't publish here since I never asked permission, went for a swim and snorkel while everyone else ate. Russell was inspired by New Zealand, though, and said that like New Zealand, he wanted to swim at every stop, and so he did. I waited for my food to digest and by the time I was ready to dive in the captain blew the whistle signaling our departure.. oh well.

Next was another beach, whose name escapes me. This was my least favorite stop, the beach was nice enough but there was some trash on the beach and the water wasn't as clear. Russell and I took a walk on the beach then I spent the rest of the time swimming around like a fish. The water was just too perfect. After that it was time to head back.

Paraty (Parati), Brazil

Igreja Santa Rita Panorama - Paraty, Brazil

After leaving Icaraí at sunrise, I finally made it to Paraty - and it didn't let down!

Paraty is set amid a cluster of peninsulas, empty beaches, and islands, with a mountain jungle backdrop. It is located on the Costa Verde (Green Coast), a lush, green corridor that runs along the coastline of the state of Rio de Janeiro, in Brazil.

Colorful buildings and cobblestone streets of Paraty, Brazil

Paraty is an exquisitely preserved historical gem, formally founded as a town by Portuguese colonizers in 1667, in a region populated by the Guaianás Indians. The colonial-era cobblestone streets and clean white centuries-old buildings with brightly colored trim are remarkable. The historical center is pedestrian friendly since no cars are allowed to drive through, although, like me, you may find yourself looking down to watch your step a good chunk of the time. It is also now a recognized as a Unesco World Heritage Site.

See my photos of Paraty on Flickr

Paraty is the jumping off point to visit the Cachoeira do Tobogã natural water slide (amazing!) as well as dozens of pristine beaches. The beaches directly in Paraty city are not all the spectacular, but Russell and I took a five hour, R$25 schooner tour that took us to two islands and two beaches (highly recommended).

Russell and I were very lucky in our timing - we visited right before the tourist rush of the holiday season. For us, the streets were practically empty - although I have heard that during peak season it can be crazy crowded - and pousada prices were pretty low (R$60 for a private room, including breakfast). Besides visiting the water slide and going on a schooner tour, we walked the historic center and saw some beautiful churches:

Capela de Nossa Senhora das Dores - Paraty, Brazil: Built in 1800 for the colonial elite. Renovated in 1901.

Matriz nossa Senhora dos Remédios - Paraty, Brazil: Built in 1787 on the site of two 17th century churches. According to legend, the construction of the church was financed using pirate treasure found on Praia da Trindade.

Igreja Santa Rita Panorama - Paraty, Brazil: Built in 1722 for freed mulattos ( persons of mixed black and European parentage).

There is also Igreja Nossa Senhora do Rosário e São Benedicto dos Homens Pretos: Built in 1725 by slaves, for slaves. It was renovated in 1857. Unfortunately we didn't have a chance to see this one.

I think two nights in Paraty was good enough for me. The couple we met there (a New Zealand fellow with his Brazilian/New Zealand wife) traveled with us to Trindade for the day before heading back to Paraty. For a lot of people Paraty is the perfect destination to hang out for a while since there is so much to do within reach of an easy bus ride.

Paraty is a great place to visit - historical, beautiful, easy to reach, and centrally located.

PS: After all the photobombing I did in NYC my karma finally caught up with me when I was photobombed by a dog! LOL!

Brazilian Bikini Shopping in Cabo Frio

Praia do Forte - Cabo Frio, Brazil

I had been looking for some good, reasonably priced bikinis for a while. C&A has decently priced bikinis, but last time I bought from there the plastic snap on top broke within a week (I tied it together with hemp string to save it) and all boutiques in Icaraí are ridiculously expensive. Who pays R$250+ (~US$150) for a bikini anyway? Aquamar, the cheapest bikini boutique around, is where I got my last few bikinis, but when I went there with Russell's dad he laughed at the prices (R$110) and said I could find the exact same thing in Cabo Frio for a fraction of the price. I had been wanting to go to Cabo Frio anyway, so Russ and I took a day trip there to get in some beach time as well as bikini shopping!

Photos: Cabo Frio day trip on Flickr

On the way there we stopped to grab some amazing pastels. I got what I like to call a Margarita Pastel - mozzarella cheese, oregano, and tomato - all inside a thin crispy crust...mmmmm.... Plus whenever we have pastels we always get a caldo de cana (sugarcane juice). So good. After our quick stop we were on our way to Cabo Frio.

Enjoying the Cabo Frio riverfront

When we arrived we immediately hit the beach for sun and swim. The water was clear and warm like most beaches here. We only stayed at the beach for 45 minutes before we got hungry again and grabbed some sardinhas (photo) - little deep fried sardines - and beer. After out mini fish feast it was time for shopping!

I was expecting bikini prices here to be low, but I never though they would be as low are they were. Only R$15 (US$9) per piece! I was able to buy one black top and three matching bottoms for R$60, cheaper than one bikini at Aquamar - amazing! Now I have a handful of Brazilian Bikinis to keep me satisfied for a while. I really wish I would have bought more though, especially another top - I have not found a top that is so cute and comfortable at the same time.

Now you know: if you ever go to Rio and are looking for a bikini, head to Cabo Frio. It is an easy drive or bus ride away and a very nice day trip!

Beautiful Rio de Janeiro Sunset

"The best thing about Niterói is the view of Rio." This is a commonly said around here and it is really true. I want to share this sunset with you so you can see for yourself. Click on the photos for more details.

Father and son fishing

Walking the beach at sunset.

The Christ and the Museu de Arte Contemporânea (MAC) lit up at sunset.

A couple walks the beach at sunset.

Sugar Loaf, Corcovado Mountain (the Christ is covered by clouds) and the MAC at sunset.

The moon over Rio de Janeiro at twilight.

Trash on Piratininga Beach

Trash on Piratininga Beach, RJ, Brazil

I've been writing about how much trash is on the beaches here, so I thought I'd upload a photo - the one below allows you to zoom in and out. Take a look at how many small plastic particles there are. This is what birds and fish are eating. Actually, right after it took this photo I watched a seagull eat a small piece of plastic - it looked like it may have been part of some sort of plastic wrapping.

Plastic has no end. It always persists. It is just broken down into smaller components, even when it is microscopic it is still plastic. Plastic also leaches toxins out of the water like a sponge. And this is what fish eat, this is what birds eat, this is even what we eat. And did you know that there are vast areas of ocean where plastic particles far outnumber plankton particles. This is a huge problem.

Beach Day! (finally)

Ahhhh, finally... I made it to the beach. For someone who loves the beach so much it is hard to imagine that it took me so long to make to the Atlantic!

Erica, Kathy, & Mika at Rockaway Beach, NY

Last Saturday I went to Rockaway Beach in Queens. The beach is the nation's largest urban beach, and it is supposed to be New York City's best. It is difficult for me to see why it is the best beach around since I have nothing to compare it to - well except the beaches of Maui, California, Barcelona, Costa Rica, Nicaragua, Panama, Mexico, and Brazil, which, by the way, Rockaway Beach sadly ranks last. I am so spoiled when it comes beaches. It is not that this beach was the terrible, just that all of the other beaches I have been to are so nice!

On the bright side, I got to hang out with a group of nice girls (Kathy and her two friends Mika and Emily). Also, the water temperature was perfect for combatting the 101ºF heat. Unfortunately the beach is littered with trash. I could see the water line by following the streak of debris snaking across the beach - luckily there was no trash floating in the water, although Kathy did have to rescue a plastic bag that blew into the water from the shore (woman after my own heart with that move!). I did get a nice tan and although it was not the best beach of all time, it was still pretty great and I had an excellent day!

One of my favorite parts of the day (besides swimming around in the ocean - I am such a water child) was actually the train ride to and from the beach. Despite the nearly two hours it took to get there by train (even though it is only 20 miles from Manhattan, 26 from my house), the A line goes through part of the 26,000-acre Gateway National Recreation Area and 9,155-acre Jamaica Bay Wildlife Refuge, home to a few hundred bird species. The train ride through those areas was very lovely. JFK is also situated near Jamaica Bay and one of my favorite things to do it watch airplanes take off and land, so that was fun as well. Complications have arisen because JFK is so near to the bird sanctuary creating a battle between technology and nature. I'm sure you remember the miracle Hudson River landing by Captain Sully Sullenberger of Flight 1549 - that crash was attributed to birds getting caught in the plane's turbines. As a reaction to the crash, New York City has just given the ok for over 170,000 geese to be euthanized - that is 1/3 of the current population. The city also recently killed four hundred Canada Geese with carbon monoxide in Prospect Park. I agree with State Senator Eric Adams - there is a more humane way to deal with the birds.

But back to the bright side. My beach day the past Saturday was excellent overall. Tomorrow I will update my blog to include my trip to the Brooklyn Museum and Botanic Gardens that I took the following Sunday.