Writing and Photography

I said in my last post that I would try and write every day... and I actually have been writing nearly every day, just not on my blog. But regardless of where I write, at least I am doing some writing. So good job me.

I have also been doing some photography around town so I can enter the photos in a these weekly contests over on Trazzler's Open Places. So far I have won two honorable mentions - one for the Santa Barbara Courthouse and another for St. Peter's Basilica in Rome, Italy - both of which you can see below:

View from the bell tower of the Santa Barbara Courthouse

Dome of St. Peter's Basilica in Rome, Italy 

2010 Lunar Eclipse and Solstice

Lunar Eclipse Over Icaraí Beach

This morning I got out of bed at 4:45am to watch the lunar eclipse (after not sleeping all night out of excitement and fear of missing it). This lunar eclipse is a special one - it coincided with the solstice - winter solstice for the northern hemisphere, summer solstice for the southern... Meaning today is the longest day of the year here in Rio de Janeiro!

NASA reports that the last time these astronomical events took place in sync was on Dec. 21, 1638, and it won't happen again until at least 2094 - making this a once in a lifetime opportunity for me.

See my photos of the lunar eclipse on Flickr.

The view was incredible of the moon setting behind the city and right after the moon was fully covered by the Earth's shadow it set behind the buildings as the sun rose from the East. All the birds and bugs began their early morning singing to the sun and Russell and I did a quick meditation session while the sun, earth, and moon were in perfect alignment.

Lunar Eclipse & Summer Solstice Meditation

View of Rio de Janeiro Across the Bay

Trindade, Brazil

Natural Swimming Pool

After our time in Paraty, Russell and I decided to head to the paradise of Trindade. The New Zealand/Brazilian couple decided to take up our invitation and came along with us, although they made a day trip out of it while we stayed the night.

The bus ride to Trindade was 45 minutes of pure excitement - not the excitement you feel from anticipation, but more like the excitement you feel on a roller coaster, that fly by the seat of your pants kind of excitement. Bus drivers here go as fast as they can without tipping the bus, and the road to Trindade is one lane, with sudden ups and downs, and sharp turns. The driver was constantly talking to the money taker - with a sign above them that specifically stated, "DO NOT TALK TO THE DRIVER." Although the ride was wild the scenery was incredibly beautiful throughout.

See photos of my trip to Trindade on Flickr

Arriving in Trindade, Russell and I got a room at a beachfront pousada (only R$50!), dropped our stuff, and got to hiking the jungle/beach trail to the natural pool. The beaches we passed (Cepilho, Ranchos, Meio, and Cachadaço) were some of the most dazzling in Brazil. There was a great surf beach, enormous boulders, mountain and jungle fringed white sand beaches, and our trail that wound through dense jungle, only to be rewarded at the end of our hike by arriving at the amazingly beautiful natural swimming pool.

We spent a few hours at the natural pool exploring, swimming, and sun bathing. When the clouds began to move in a we felt a few sprinkles on our heads we decided not to take our chance hiking back through the jungle (with rain the already muddy path would have been rough, especially in sandals) and instead paid R$30 for the 4 of us to take a quick boat ride back to the main beach, where all sat down to sip some fresh juice... mmm suco de manga (mango juice). After our juice break we walked the really great couple to the bus stop and said goodbye as we each continued on our separate journeys. Meeting other travelers is great like that - you can hook up and travel together for as long as it suits you then go you separate ways when the time comes and everybody stays happy and grateful for the moment.

Jungle trail off Praia Trindade

Russ and I went back to the pousada to shower off then went to grab a bite to eat. We found a place that served a prato feito com peixe for R$35 - rice, beans, salad, french fries, and two fish fillets. Plus we each got a caipirinha (Brazil's national cocktail) made with local cachaça - really delicious. I am actually thinking about bringing home some cachaça just so I can make caipirinhas at home for my family.

After dinner Russ and I decided to take a walk along Praia Trindade - the long beach that the town sits on. A beach dog decided he wanted to walk with us and followed along the whole way, even climbing rocks with us! Along the way I spotted a jungle path that was so dense it was more like a cave. Russ and I explored that for a bit before returning to the beach to continue our walk, along with the beach dog, who only left us to check up on the very few other people walking the beach... he was like the beach welcome/safety dog. I think that is his purpose, to make sure all of us are all right. I have to admit that one of my favorite parts of traveling is all of the really chill street dogs that I meet. Every one of them is good tempered and some of them even play fetch!

The beach dog followed us everywhere.

Praia Trindade is littered with giant boulders everywhere, that are sometimes covered by the ocean water - it is actually amazing the amounts of water that come in and out with the tidal shifts in this area! I am happy that we were there at a low point so we had a huge beach to explore.

When nighttime was beginning to settle in we made our way back into town where I bought some jewelry made of Golden Grass. After our little shopping excursion we headed back to our pousada and relaxed beachfront before heading in for a night of restful sleep.

The next morning I woke up to a terribly infected foot wound so Russ and I decided to head back home so I could recover away from the sand and jungle.

What a great mini-vacation!

Paraty Schooner Boat Tour

Snorkeling at Praia Vermelha

After our first day in Paraty at the Cachoeira Tobogã natural water slide, we decided a nice, relaxing schooner tour was necessary for our second day. All schooner tours in town are R$25 for a five hour trip, stopping at two beaches and two islands. This is the basic tour - there are others that go to farther away areas around Paraty, but they cost more. For us, five hours blissing out on the water was just fine. Most tours include some kind of food - usually fruit. Ours had a bar on board and lunch was served for an added fee. The New Zealand couple also went on this tour, but they were very clever because they brought their own food on board and saved themselves some money (Russell and I shared a massive plate of fresh fried fish) and they swam in the blue lagoon while everyone else was eating - New Zealanders, they are the best travelers!

On the day of the tour the weather was perfect! A thin layer of clouds in the sky so it wasn't sweltering hot - just a perfect warm temperature. The water was clear and warm. I rented a snorkel mask for R$10 and Russell brought his own swim goggles.

See photos of my Paraty schooner tour on Flickr.

The ride out to our first stop was incredible. There are so many waterfront houses that are only reachable by boat and we passed Brazil's third most expensive island at $15 million - it used to be where the Portuguese would hold water and other supplies for sea journeys, so it already has a lot of infrastructure like wells, paved paths, and docks. Imagine owning a beautiful island like that! I am content sitting on a boat cruising by - because really how many people even have that opportunity... my life is blessed!

Underwater meditation at Praia Vermelha

Our first stop was Praia Vermelha - a nice beach for walking, swimming, and snorkeling. Russ and I spent our time jumping off the side of the boat a few times (Russ went off the second level deck while I only jumped from the main level). We also put my waterproof camera to good use. Unfortunately when I let Russell use my camera, which is waterproof to 10 feet, he got excited chasing a fish and dove down over 15 feet in pursuit of that perfect photo - and bam! Camera broken. I was able to take a few photos with it after it broke - the screen didn't work but it was still taking photos every now and again - but by the end of the trip my camera was totally RIP. Luckily the memory card didn't die and the photos that we were able to take survived. I brought my older camera with me (thanks to my mom for that great camera, which has lasted me years and years including 3 trips to Brazil and a trip to Mexico). My waterproof camera was really great while it lasted and I will get another one since it is so good for traveling, but next time I will either get one that goes deeper or I just won't let Russ use it!

Fish at the natural aquarium

After Praia Vermelha we went to something the the captain (oh, and the captain played guitar, sang, and gave info on all the surroundings - really talented guy!) called the Natural Aquarium. And I can see why - hundreds of fish everywhere! There were already a bunch of fish around, but then they threw in some food and I'm telling you there were more fish than water! Too bad my camera couldn't go in the water! Oh well at least I got one shot from above! I too the opportunity to snorkel with all the fish danging around me. It was really a great time.

The Blue Lagoon

Next we headed to the Blue Lagoon. It is not actually a lagoon, but the waters are very calm and extremely vivid blue - imagine the clearest blue sky you have ever seen, enhance it by 10, and add a dash of turquoise... that is the blue lagoon. Here is where we are lunch. New Zealand, as we called him before learning his name, which I won't publish here since I never asked permission, went for a swim and snorkel while everyone else ate. Russell was inspired by New Zealand, though, and said that like New Zealand, he wanted to swim at every stop, and so he did. I waited for my food to digest and by the time I was ready to dive in the captain blew the whistle signaling our departure.. oh well.

Next was another beach, whose name escapes me. This was my least favorite stop, the beach was nice enough but there was some trash on the beach and the water wasn't as clear. Russell and I took a walk on the beach then I spent the rest of the time swimming around like a fish. The water was just too perfect. After that it was time to head back.

Paraty (Parati), Brazil

Igreja Santa Rita Panorama - Paraty, Brazil

After leaving Icaraí at sunrise, I finally made it to Paraty - and it didn't let down!

Paraty is set amid a cluster of peninsulas, empty beaches, and islands, with a mountain jungle backdrop. It is located on the Costa Verde (Green Coast), a lush, green corridor that runs along the coastline of the state of Rio de Janeiro, in Brazil.

Colorful buildings and cobblestone streets of Paraty, Brazil

Paraty is an exquisitely preserved historical gem, formally founded as a town by Portuguese colonizers in 1667, in a region populated by the Guaianás Indians. The colonial-era cobblestone streets and clean white centuries-old buildings with brightly colored trim are remarkable. The historical center is pedestrian friendly since no cars are allowed to drive through, although, like me, you may find yourself looking down to watch your step a good chunk of the time. It is also now a recognized as a Unesco World Heritage Site.

See my photos of Paraty on Flickr

Paraty is the jumping off point to visit the Cachoeira do Tobogã natural water slide (amazing!) as well as dozens of pristine beaches. The beaches directly in Paraty city are not all the spectacular, but Russell and I took a five hour, R$25 schooner tour that took us to two islands and two beaches (highly recommended).

Russell and I were very lucky in our timing - we visited right before the tourist rush of the holiday season. For us, the streets were practically empty - although I have heard that during peak season it can be crazy crowded - and pousada prices were pretty low (R$60 for a private room, including breakfast). Besides visiting the water slide and going on a schooner tour, we walked the historic center and saw some beautiful churches:

Capela de Nossa Senhora das Dores - Paraty, Brazil: Built in 1800 for the colonial elite. Renovated in 1901.

Matriz nossa Senhora dos Remédios - Paraty, Brazil: Built in 1787 on the site of two 17th century churches. According to legend, the construction of the church was financed using pirate treasure found on Praia da Trindade.

Igreja Santa Rita Panorama - Paraty, Brazil: Built in 1722 for freed mulattos ( persons of mixed black and European parentage).

There is also Igreja Nossa Senhora do Rosário e São Benedicto dos Homens Pretos: Built in 1725 by slaves, for slaves. It was renovated in 1857. Unfortunately we didn't have a chance to see this one.

I think two nights in Paraty was good enough for me. The couple we met there (a New Zealand fellow with his Brazilian/New Zealand wife) traveled with us to Trindade for the day before heading back to Paraty. For a lot of people Paraty is the perfect destination to hang out for a while since there is so much to do within reach of an easy bus ride.

Paraty is a great place to visit - historical, beautiful, easy to reach, and centrally located.

PS: After all the photobombing I did in NYC my karma finally caught up with me when I was photobombed by a dog! LOL!

Paraty Natural Water Slide - Cachoeira do Tobogã

Swinging bridge at Cachoeira do Tobogã

Finally it is time to write about my mini-vacation. Russell and I had originally planned on going to the north of Brazil, Jericoacoara specifically, but decided that instead of spending hundreds on a plane ticket, we would just take a cheap bus to nearby Paraty and spend our money on good food and activities.

Upon our arrival in Paraty, after dropping our things at a pousada and grabbing a bite to eat, we headed to Cachoeira do Tobogã - a natural water slide that I has read is a must see when visiting Paraty.

See my photos of Cachoeira do Tobogã on Flickr

Cachoeira do Tobogã is 10km inland from Paraty and was featured in the film The Emerald Forest. To get there you can catch any bus marked "Penha" (R$2.60, 20-30 minutes) from the Paraty bus station. The ride there is beautiful and when we went everything was green and fresh. On the way up you will see the entrance on the right-hand side of the road. You can't miss it - there is a large poster with a photo of the falls next to a white church on a rock on the right and a covered bus stop on the left.

After walking down a path for 5 minutes we arrived at the bottom of the Cachoeira do Tobogã water slide - a big deep pool with a few people perched around it taking photos of the locals. About the locals: Do not do what they do! These guys go surfing down the slide on their feet often doing jumps and spins. Russell and I stuck to going down seated, which was enough fun for me.

Under the waterfall at Cachoeira do Tobogã

There is the bottom pool which you splash your way into from the slide and there is a top pool. The top pool was shollow enough for young kids and older couples to lounge in and there is a nice waterfall that runs into the pool. This is the waterfall that you can hide under as water cascades down around you blocking you from view. Rumor has it that this is where slaves would hide for weeks as they tried to escape their colonial masters.

I noticed that many people just hung around the two main pools and slide, but we decided to go up the path a little further (and across the kind of scary swinging bridge) to explore and were rewarded with clear swimming holes and nobody else around. We took some time to lay on the warm rocks and take in the sounds of the running water and the singing birds. Although we had the place to ourselves I imagine that during peak season things can get pretty packed since Bar do Tarzan is nearby (which was closed while we were there).

Cachoeira do Tobogã was extremely refreshing, rejuvenating, and relaxing. It is an easy location to reach, it is extremely beautiful, and the water slide is a blast! I highly recommend it to anyone who visits Paraty.

Note: There are also a lot of lovely pousadas nearby if you are looking to get out of Paraty's touristy colonial center for a night

Panorama of the Cachoeira do Tobogã pool

Brazilian Bikini Shopping in Cabo Frio

Praia do Forte - Cabo Frio, Brazil

I had been looking for some good, reasonably priced bikinis for a while. C&A has decently priced bikinis, but last time I bought from there the plastic snap on top broke within a week (I tied it together with hemp string to save it) and all boutiques in Icaraí are ridiculously expensive. Who pays R$250+ (~US$150) for a bikini anyway? Aquamar, the cheapest bikini boutique around, is where I got my last few bikinis, but when I went there with Russell's dad he laughed at the prices (R$110) and said I could find the exact same thing in Cabo Frio for a fraction of the price. I had been wanting to go to Cabo Frio anyway, so Russ and I took a day trip there to get in some beach time as well as bikini shopping!

Photos: Cabo Frio day trip on Flickr

On the way there we stopped to grab some amazing pastels. I got what I like to call a Margarita Pastel - mozzarella cheese, oregano, and tomato - all inside a thin crispy crust...mmmmm.... Plus whenever we have pastels we always get a caldo de cana (sugarcane juice). So good. After our quick stop we were on our way to Cabo Frio.

Enjoying the Cabo Frio riverfront

When we arrived we immediately hit the beach for sun and swim. The water was clear and warm like most beaches here. We only stayed at the beach for 45 minutes before we got hungry again and grabbed some sardinhas (photo) - little deep fried sardines - and beer. After out mini fish feast it was time for shopping!

I was expecting bikini prices here to be low, but I never though they would be as low are they were. Only R$15 (US$9) per piece! I was able to buy one black top and three matching bottoms for R$60, cheaper than one bikini at Aquamar - amazing! Now I have a handful of Brazilian Bikinis to keep me satisfied for a while. I really wish I would have bought more though, especially another top - I have not found a top that is so cute and comfortable at the same time.

Now you know: if you ever go to Rio and are looking for a bikini, head to Cabo Frio. It is an easy drive or bus ride away and a very nice day trip!

Beautiful Rio de Janeiro Sunset

"The best thing about Niterói is the view of Rio." This is a commonly said around here and it is really true. I want to share this sunset with you so you can see for yourself. Click on the photos for more details.

Father and son fishing

Walking the beach at sunset.

The Christ and the Museu de Arte Contemporânea (MAC) lit up at sunset.

A couple walks the beach at sunset.

Sugar Loaf, Corcovado Mountain (the Christ is covered by clouds) and the MAC at sunset.

The moon over Rio de Janeiro at twilight.

Slackline With A Homeless Family

BOPE occupies a favela in Tijuca, photo by Max Coelho/BOPE.

The amount of homeless in Icaraí has drastically increased since my last two visits in 2008 and 2009.  From what I understand, Rio won hosting duties for the World Cup and Olympics and now the government has begun Favela Pacification - favelas are invaded and occupied by police forces. Sometimes there can be all out war between gangs and military police but often war lords and drug and gun traffickers flee into the cities surrounding Rio. Basically the homeless, as well as war lords and drug and arms traffickers, are being swept out of Rio and into the surrounding cities, such as here in Niterói.

[Favela Pacification Spreads to Tijuca]

The girls go for a dip with the baby after playing on the slackline.

Russell and I are very popular on the beach when we do slackline. We are equal opportunity and all different types of kids, from high class kids to favela kids, come and want to try the slackline. So when a homeless family set up camp under a shade tree next to us, their kids obviously wanted to come and play - and they did.

The social gap between couple walking and the homeless family is palpable.

Our conversation:

Are you a gringa?
   Yes, yes I am.
Laughter
Where are you from?
   America
Germany?
   No, The United States of America.
Oh, Germany.
   No, the US.
Germany must be nice.
   Yes, Germany is nice.

Deep, I know. But they didn't seem to know of the US - Russell even told them and they still didn't get it.

The family seems to consist of one older man (certainly drunk or on drugs, or both [read about the crack epidemic among the homeless]), a woman my age or a little older (she seemed to be in charge of things), two male teenagers, three younger girls and two younger boys, and one baby.

They all had giant Coca-Cola bottles to drink from. I often see homeless people with Coke, but never see them with water. Why? Coke is cheaper than water. How can that be, right? I know. It's outrageous. Not to mention how may health and dental problems arise from drinking sugar filled Coke as a substitute for water.

Slackline on the beach.

It really sucks that instead of getting these kids off the streets and into school (which in Brazil is mandatory and free) the government instead is just ignoring the problem and transplanting these social and structural issues from Rio into surrounding cities. I don't think invasion and occupation are long term solutions - but hey, at least Rio will be looking good in the harsh international spotlight (note the touch of sarcasm in my voice).

Brazilian Suicide Shower

Brazilian Suicide Shower

Most buildings in Latin America are not equipped with pipes that carry water to a boiler to heat up, thus no hot water. But really, who wants to take a cold shower every morning? Even in the tropics a warm shower is a lovely thing. As a solution, the basic rule of "don't mix electricity and water" was thrown out, to give you the Suicide Shower. Basically you fit this contraption over the shower head then wire it into the electric mains. It takes up so much power that you know it is working when the house lights flicker or dim when it's turned on.

Suicide Showers are iconic to Latin America, and I'm sure nearly every person who has traveled in Central or South America remembers their first time turning on the water - please don't die, please don't die - or the time they got their first little shock - mine was in San Juan del Sur, Nicaragua. Some are scarier than others, with their wires hanging down a little bit too close for comfort.  My first encounter with a Suicide Shower was living in Costa Rica. I've also seen them in Nicaragua, Panama, Mexico, and obviously here in Brazil. I've learned a few things about the art of using a Suicide Shower, which is safe as long as you don't do something stupid.

1. Make sure you actually turn the thing on. To activate it, you usually have to reach a certain level of water flow.
2. Once the water begins to warm you have to find the ideal temperature. If the flow rate is too low the water can be scalding. If it is too high the water will only be lukewarm or not warm at all. It is not like the US where you can turn the "cold" knob up a little. Here there is only one knob - so use the flow rate to control the water temperature.
3. Wear sandals. Or make sure there is something rubber in the shower to stand on. This is what I was told when I arrived in Brazil.  I never heard this in Costa Rica or elsewhere, but in Brazil I was specifically told to always stay on the rubber mat or wear your sandals. Not sure if this actually helps or if it is myth, but intuitively I guess it makes sense - kind of like being in a car during a lightning storm?
4. Don't touch any wires or the unit itself, especially avoid doing this while you are IN the shower.

Overall, I've never had any major problems with using the Suicide Shower and I am happy to say that Brazil is known for producing the highest quality Suicide Showers.

Bananal Hike, Itacoatiara, Brazil

Bananal Hike

Finally the weather is getting warmer (I know I will be begging for the cold when it gets sweltering here later), so Russel and I headed to Itacoatiara for a little dip in the Atlantic (the Atlantic Ocean is huge! I swam in it in NYC and now again in Brazil!). After our swim we decided to leave the jam-packed beach and go on a hike to Bananal (photos).

Bananal is basically a big rock over the water. People sometimes set up a slackline here and walk across a high gap from one giant rock to another. I have also seen videos of people rappelling down the rock.

Russ and I hiked through the forest to get there (very beautiful and green, btw) then spent some time just sitting and listening to the birds. While in NYC I bought some pastels - my girl Anne uses them and seems to like them, plus they are small enough and portable enough for traveling, so I made the investment in a new hobby. I have not been into drawing since I was in like 3rd grade, but I'm not trying to make some amazing work of art, just relaxing my mind and being present. Since we were at such a beautiful place I took some time to draw the scenery.

I liked Bananal a lot - surrounded by forest behind you, huge rocks on either side, and the ocean out in front. Peace. Those are the times when I like to feel gravity pulling me to Earth - feeling centered, grounded.

After a few hours of hiking and finding peace on the rock, the sun fell behind the mountain and we headed back.

Below you'll find a short video of the hike, and a plug for our other site, soletravelbrazil.com - which will hopefully receive a face-lift while I am in Brazil.