Sunset from Lizard's Mouth

Sunset from Lizard's Mouth.

A new friend of mine took me up to a place in the Santa Ynez Mountains called the Lizard's Mouth this past Wednesday to watch the sunset. Lizard's Mouth is in an area of sandston outcroppings that overlooks Goleta and beyond.

When I went up there the evening was a little bit hazy, making the ocean and sky melt together, undifferentiated. The Channel Islands looked like they were floating in the sky. The view of the mountains sloping down into Goleta was spectacular - certainly one of the best views in Santa Barbara I have seen so far. Lizard's Mouth is also easy to get to. Whereas most vistas require a decent hike to get to, the trail to Lizard's Mouth can be measured in yards rather than miles.

To get to the trailhead drive up the 154 and take West Camino Cielo for a few miles. Just before you arrive at a shooting range, there will be a brown sign on the left that says, "Lizard's Mouth," indicating the trail head. Follow the short path and there you'll be.

Although Lizard's mouth is a great spot to hang out and relax, it also has some darker secrets. I knew that the 2008 Gap Fire started here (accidentally by a 16 year old boy), but there is an even stranger piece of history tied to this place. In August 2000 Jesse James Hollywood ordered the kidnapping and murder of 15 year old Nicholas Markowitz as revenge for a $1,200 debt his older brother, Benjamin, owed him. Hollywood's henchmen went up to the Lizard's Mouth beforehand to dig a shallow grave. Later that night, after telling Nicholas that he was going home, the men took Nicholas up into the mountains where they bound him, hit him over the head with a shovel, and shot him nine times, after which they buried him in the shallow grave. The body was found several days later and police began making arrests. Hollywood, however, fled the country through Canada and then flew to Rio de Janeiro, Brazil with a fake passport. He managed to hide out in Rio de Janeiro and Saquarema until 2005 when he was captured and later extradited to the US. While Hollywood was in Brazil, all participants in the murder were convicted or made pleas. In 2006 the movie Alpha Dog, based on Jesse Hollywood and the kidnap and murder of Nicholas Markowitz, was released. Finally, in July 2009, Hollywood was found guilty of kidnapping and first-degree murder and was sentenced to life in prison without the possibility of parole.

I didn't know about the Hollywood case before I went up there. It is interesting how once you find out something new about a place it can totally change your perspective of it. I went up there for pure enjoyment, yet I wonder, had know about this story beforehand would I have been enjoying myself to the fullest or would I have been looking for the "X" on a rock that supposedly marks the grave site, thinking that this was the last view that boy saw - at least it was a nice view (<-- is that morbid?). I will certainly go up there again and I will be sure to monitor my own reaction.

All in all, the Lizard's Mouth was an excellent place to watch the sunset and spend time with a wonderful person, having great conversation.

Tangerine Falls, Santa Barbara, CA

Walking through clouds of mist at Tangerine Falls

I often hike up the East Fork of the Cold Springs trail, which goes up to my favorite swimming hole as well as an incredible view of Montecito and Santa Barbara below. Beyond that is Montecito Peak. This time around, though, I went up the West Fork, which goes to Tangerine Falls. You can take a trail to the top of the falls or the bottom - we choose the bottom of the falls to get a good view. Plus there have been a few people in the past few months who had to get rescued from the upper path because they didn't leave enough time to get back down.

Tangerine Falls

The weather was very moist. If it was warmer I could have mistaken myself in a tropical rainforest. Everything was green and beautiful - and wet and slippery! After taking a few wrong turns and crossing over the rain swollen creek, we found our way to Tangerine Falls and Russell took a dive into the freezing water! He went right under the waterfall and disappeared behind it. The other hikers went wild for that, cheering him on.

After his waterfall shower, Russ and I headed back down to the car. Very nice after work hike, although I still prefer the East Fork (nothing can beat our secluded swimming hole and water slide!)

More photos: Tangerine Falls Hike

Trindade, Brazil

Natural Swimming Pool

After our time in Paraty, Russell and I decided to head to the paradise of Trindade. The New Zealand/Brazilian couple decided to take up our invitation and came along with us, although they made a day trip out of it while we stayed the night.

The bus ride to Trindade was 45 minutes of pure excitement - not the excitement you feel from anticipation, but more like the excitement you feel on a roller coaster, that fly by the seat of your pants kind of excitement. Bus drivers here go as fast as they can without tipping the bus, and the road to Trindade is one lane, with sudden ups and downs, and sharp turns. The driver was constantly talking to the money taker - with a sign above them that specifically stated, "DO NOT TALK TO THE DRIVER." Although the ride was wild the scenery was incredibly beautiful throughout.

See photos of my trip to Trindade on Flickr

Arriving in Trindade, Russell and I got a room at a beachfront pousada (only R$50!), dropped our stuff, and got to hiking the jungle/beach trail to the natural pool. The beaches we passed (Cepilho, Ranchos, Meio, and Cachadaço) were some of the most dazzling in Brazil. There was a great surf beach, enormous boulders, mountain and jungle fringed white sand beaches, and our trail that wound through dense jungle, only to be rewarded at the end of our hike by arriving at the amazingly beautiful natural swimming pool.

We spent a few hours at the natural pool exploring, swimming, and sun bathing. When the clouds began to move in a we felt a few sprinkles on our heads we decided not to take our chance hiking back through the jungle (with rain the already muddy path would have been rough, especially in sandals) and instead paid R$30 for the 4 of us to take a quick boat ride back to the main beach, where all sat down to sip some fresh juice... mmm suco de manga (mango juice). After our juice break we walked the really great couple to the bus stop and said goodbye as we each continued on our separate journeys. Meeting other travelers is great like that - you can hook up and travel together for as long as it suits you then go you separate ways when the time comes and everybody stays happy and grateful for the moment.

Jungle trail off Praia Trindade

Russ and I went back to the pousada to shower off then went to grab a bite to eat. We found a place that served a prato feito com peixe for R$35 - rice, beans, salad, french fries, and two fish fillets. Plus we each got a caipirinha (Brazil's national cocktail) made with local cachaça - really delicious. I am actually thinking about bringing home some cachaça just so I can make caipirinhas at home for my family.

After dinner Russ and I decided to take a walk along Praia Trindade - the long beach that the town sits on. A beach dog decided he wanted to walk with us and followed along the whole way, even climbing rocks with us! Along the way I spotted a jungle path that was so dense it was more like a cave. Russ and I explored that for a bit before returning to the beach to continue our walk, along with the beach dog, who only left us to check up on the very few other people walking the beach... he was like the beach welcome/safety dog. I think that is his purpose, to make sure all of us are all right. I have to admit that one of my favorite parts of traveling is all of the really chill street dogs that I meet. Every one of them is good tempered and some of them even play fetch!

The beach dog followed us everywhere.

Praia Trindade is littered with giant boulders everywhere, that are sometimes covered by the ocean water - it is actually amazing the amounts of water that come in and out with the tidal shifts in this area! I am happy that we were there at a low point so we had a huge beach to explore.

When nighttime was beginning to settle in we made our way back into town where I bought some jewelry made of Golden Grass. After our little shopping excursion we headed back to our pousada and relaxed beachfront before heading in for a night of restful sleep.

The next morning I woke up to a terribly infected foot wound so Russ and I decided to head back home so I could recover away from the sand and jungle.

What a great mini-vacation!

Bananal Hike, Itacoatiara, Brazil

Bananal Hike

Finally the weather is getting warmer (I know I will be begging for the cold when it gets sweltering here later), so Russel and I headed to Itacoatiara for a little dip in the Atlantic (the Atlantic Ocean is huge! I swam in it in NYC and now again in Brazil!). After our swim we decided to leave the jam-packed beach and go on a hike to Bananal (photos).

Bananal is basically a big rock over the water. People sometimes set up a slackline here and walk across a high gap from one giant rock to another. I have also seen videos of people rappelling down the rock.

Russ and I hiked through the forest to get there (very beautiful and green, btw) then spent some time just sitting and listening to the birds. While in NYC I bought some pastels - my girl Anne uses them and seems to like them, plus they are small enough and portable enough for traveling, so I made the investment in a new hobby. I have not been into drawing since I was in like 3rd grade, but I'm not trying to make some amazing work of art, just relaxing my mind and being present. Since we were at such a beautiful place I took some time to draw the scenery.

I liked Bananal a lot - surrounded by forest behind you, huge rocks on either side, and the ocean out in front. Peace. Those are the times when I like to feel gravity pulling me to Earth - feeling centered, grounded.

After a few hours of hiking and finding peace on the rock, the sun fell behind the mountain and we headed back.

Below you'll find a short video of the hike, and a plug for our other site, soletravelbrazil.com - which will hopefully receive a face-lift while I am in Brazil.