Tuesday, December 21, 2010

2010 Lunar Eclipse and Solstice

Lunar Eclipse - Rio de Janeiro, Brazil
Lunar Eclipse Over Icaraí Beach
This morning I got out of bed at 4:45am to watch the lunar eclipse (after not sleeping all night out of excitement and fear of missing it). This lunar eclipse is a special one - it coincided with the solstice - winter solstice for the northern hemisphere, summer solstice for the southern... Meaning today is the longest day of the year here in Rio de Janeiro!

NASA reports that the last time these astronomical events took place in sync was on Dec. 21, 1638, and it won't happen again until at least 2094 - making this a once in a lifetime opportunity for me.

See my photos of the lunar eclipse on Flickr.

The view was incredible of the moon setting behind the city and right after the moon was fully covered by the Earth's shadow it set behind the buildings as the sun rose from the East. All the birds and bugs began their early morning singing to the sun and Russell and I did a quick meditation session while the sun, earth, and moon were in perfect alignment.

Lunar Eclipse - Rio de Janeiro, Brazil
Lunar Eclipse & Summer Solstice Meditation
Lunar Eclipse - Rio de Janeiro, Brazil
View of Rio de Janeiro Across the Bay

Tuesday, December 14, 2010

Brazilian Golden Grass (Capim Dourado)

Golden Grass
With Karine, wearing my Golden Grass headband and earrings.
Golden Grass (Capim Dourado) is a rare natural, organic and eco-friendly fiber found only in the Jalapão region, Tocantins, Brazil. It has the appearance of gold and continues to shine even after its harvest. The harvest, by law, occurs only once a year between September 20th and November 20th when the seeds are mature. During the harvest, the flowers must be cut and re-spread in the harvested field. According to the same law, Golden Grass cannot be commercialized "in natura" - meaning that it cannot leave the region without first becoming a handcrafted piece. This ensures that the traditional handcrafts remain an important source of income to many families in Jalapão region of Brazil.

Golden Grass
Wedding party!!!
I saw golden grass for the first time three years ago in San Mateo, CA as a bracelet and fell in love with it. Unfortunately the bracelet was US$70and I had been searching for golden grass ever since. Finally, in Trindade, I found a bracelet for R$15. While there I also bought earrings, and ring, and a headband. The prices of Golden Grass are expected to rise since the growing region of Brazil has experienced a drought and subsequent fire (global warming, anyone?).

Those of you who know me, know that I like wearing natural jewelry such as wood and shells - Golden Grass has now been added to that list and is one of my new favorite jewelry types. I even wore my Golden Grass jewelry to the wedding of actor Jonatas Faro to actress Danielle Winits - and it looked lovely!

Trindade, Brazil

Natural Swimming Pool in Trindade, Brazil
Natural Swimming Pool
After our time in Paraty, Russell and I decided to head to the paradise of Trindade. The New Zealand/Brazilian couple decided to take up our invitation and came along with us, although they made a day trip out of it while we stayed the night.

The bus ride to Trindade was 45 minutes of pure excitement - not the excitement you feel from anticipation, but more like the excitement you feel on a roller coaster, that fly by the seat of your pants kind of excitement. Bus drivers here go as fast as they can without tipping the bus, and the road to Trindade is one lane, with sudden ups and downs, and sharp turns. The driver was constantly talking to the money taker - with a sign above them that specifically stated, "DO NOT TALK TO THE DRIVER." Although the ride was wild the scenery was incredibly beautiful throughout.

See photos of my trip to Trindade on Flickr

Arriving in Trindade, Russell and I got a room at a beachfront pousada (only R$50!), dropped our stuff, and got to hiking the jungle/beach trail to the natural pool. The beaches we passed (Cepilho, Ranchos, Meio, and Cachadaço) were some of the most dazzling in Brazil. There was a great surf beach, enormous boulders, mountain and jungle fringed white sand beaches, and our trail that wound through dense jungle, only to be rewarded at the end of our hike by arriving at the amazingly beautiful natural swimming pool.

We spent a few hours at the natural pool exploring, swimming, and sun bathing. When the clouds began to move in a we felt a few sprinkles on our heads we decided not to take our chance hiking back through the jungle (with rain the already muddy path would have been rough, especially in sandals) and instead paid R$30 for the 4 of us to take a quick boat ride back to the main beach, where all sat down to sip some fresh juice... mmm suco de manga (mango juice). After our juice break we walked the really great couple to the bus stop and said goodbye as we each continued on our separate journeys. Meeting other travelers is great like that - you can hook up and travel together for as long as it suits you then go you separate ways when the time comes and everybody stays happy and grateful for the moment.

Jungle Trail in Trindade, Brazil
Jungle trail off Praia Trindade
Russ and I went back to the pousada to shower off then went to grab a bite to eat. We found a place that served a prato feito com peixe for R$35 - rice, beans, salad, french fries, and two fish fillets. Plus we each got a caipirinha (Brazil's national cocktail) made with local cachaça - really delicious. I am actually thinking about bringing home some cachaça just so I can make caipirinhas at home for my family.

After dinner Russ and I decided to take a walk along Praia Trindade - the long beach that the town sits on. A beach dog decided he wanted to walk with us and followed along the whole way, even climbing rocks with us! Along the way I spotted a jungle path that was so dense it was more like a cave. Russ and I explored that for a bit before returning to the beach to continue our walk, along with the beach dog, who only left us to check up on the very few other people walking the beach... he was like the beach welcome/safety dog. I think that is his purpose, to make sure all of us are all right. I have to admit that one of my favorite parts of traveling is all of the really chill street dogs that I meet. Every one of them is good tempered and some of them even play fetch!

Praia Trindade - Trindade, Brazil
The beach dog followed us everywhere.
Praia Trindade is littered with giant boulders everywhere, that are sometimes covered by the ocean water - it is actually amazing the amounts of water that come in and out with the tidal shifts in this area! I am happy that we were there at a low point so we had a huge beach to explore.

When nighttime was beginning to settle in we made our way back into town where I bought some jewelry made of Golden Grass. After our little shopping excursion we headed back to our pousada and relaxed beachfront before heading in for a night of restful sleep.

The next morning I woke up to a terribly infected foot wound so Russ and I decided to head back home so I could recover away from the sand and jungle.

What a great mini-vacation!

Monday, December 13, 2010

Paraty Schooner Boat Tour

Paraty Schooner Tour
Snorkeling at Praia Vermelha
After our first day in Paraty at the Cachoeira Tobogã natural water slide, we decided a nice, relaxing schooner tour was necessary for our second day. All schooner tours in town are R$25 for a five hour trip, stopping at two beaches and two islands. This is the basic tour - there are others that go to farther away areas around Paraty, but they cost more. For us, five hours blissing out on the water was just fine. Most tours include some kind of food - usually fruit. Ours had a bar on board and lunch was served for an added fee. The New Zealand couple also went on this tour, but they were very clever because they brought their own food on board and saved themselves some money (Russell and I shared a massive plate of fresh fried fish) and they swam in the blue lagoon while everyone else was eating - New Zealanders, they are the best travelers!

On the day of the tour the weather was perfect! A thin layer of clouds in the sky so it wasn't sweltering hot - just a perfect warm temperature. The water was clear and warm. I rented a snorkel mask for R$10 and Russell brought his own swim goggles.

See photos of my Paraty schooner tour on Flickr.

The ride out to our first stop was incredible. There are so many waterfront houses that are only reachable by boat and we passed Brazil's third most expensive island at $15 million - it used to be where the Portuguese would hold water and other supplies for sea journeys, so it already has a lot of infrastructure like wells, paved paths, and docks. Imagine owning a beautiful island like that! I am content sitting on a boat cruising by - because really how many people even have that opportunity... my life is blessed!
Underwater Meditation
Underwater meditation at Praia Vermelha
Our first stop was Praia Vermelha - a nice beach for walking, swimming, and snorkeling. Russ and I spent our time jumping off the side of the boat a few times (Russ went off the second level deck while I only jumped from the main level). We also put my waterproof camera to good use. Unfortunately when I let Russell use my camera, which is waterproof to 10 feet, he got excited chasing a fish and dove down over 15 feet in pursuit of that perfect photo - and bam! Camera broken. I was able to take a few photos with it after it broke - the screen didn't work but it was still taking photos every now and again - but by the end of the trip my camera was totally RIP. Luckily the memory card didn't die and the photos that we were able to take survived. I brought my older camera with me (thanks to my mom for that great camera, which has lasted me years and years including 3 trips to Brazil and a trip to Mexico). My waterproof camera was really great while it lasted and I will get another one since it is so good for traveling, but next time I will either get one that goes deeper or I just won't let Russ use it!

Paraty Schooner Tour
Fish at the natural aquarium
After Praia Vermelha we went to something the the captain (oh, and the captain played guitar, sang, and gave info on all the surroundings - really talented guy!) called the Natural Aquarium. And I can see why - hundreds of fish everywhere! There were already a bunch of fish around, but then they threw in some food and I'm telling you there were more fish than water! Too bad my camera couldn't go in the water! Oh well at least I got one shot from above! I too the opportunity to snorkel with all the fish danging around me. It was really a great time.

Blue Lagoon - Paraty Schooner Tour
The Blue Lagoon
Next we headed to the Blue Lagoon. It is not actually a lagoon, but the waters are very calm and extremely vivid blue - imagine the clearest blue sky you have ever seen, enhance it by 10, and add a dash of turquoise... that is the blue lagoon. Here is where we are lunch. New Zealand, as we called him before learning his name, which I won't publish here since I never asked permission, went for a swim and snorkel while everyone else ate. Russell was inspired by New Zealand, though, and said that like New Zealand, he wanted to swim at every stop, and so he did. I waited for my food to digest and by the time I was ready to dive in the captain blew the whistle signaling our departure.. oh well.

Next was another beach, whose name escapes me. This was my least favorite stop, the beach was nice enough but there was some trash on the beach and the water wasn't as clear. Russell and I took a walk on the beach then I spent the rest of the time swimming around like a fish. The water was just too perfect. After that it was time to head back.

Friday, December 10, 2010

Paraty (Parati), Brazil

Igreja Santa Rita Panorama - Paraty, Brazil
Igreja Santa Rita Panorama - Paraty, Brazil
After leaving Icaraí at sunrise, I finally made it to Paraty - and it didn't let down!

Paraty is set amid a cluster of peninsulas, empty beaches, and islands, with a mountain jungle backdrop. It is located on the Costa Verde (Green Coast), a lush, green corridor that runs along the coastline of the state of Rio de Janeiro, in Brazil.

Colorful buildings and cobblestone streets of Paraty, Brazil
Colorful buildings and cobblestone streets of Paraty, Brazil
Paraty is an exquisitely preserved historical gem, formally founded as a town by Portuguese colonizers in 1667, in a region populated by the Guaianás Indians. The colonial-era cobblestone streets and clean white centuries-old buildings with brightly colored trim are remarkable. The historical center is pedestrian friendly since no cars are allowed to drive through, although, like me, you may find yourself looking down to watch your step a good chunk of the time. It is also now a recognized as a Unesco World Heritage Site.

See my photos of Paraty on Flickr

Paraty is the jumping off point to visit the Cachoeira do Tobogã natural water slide (amazing!) as well as dozens of pristine beaches. The beaches directly in Paraty city are not all the spectacular, but Russell and I took a five hour, R$25 schooner tour that took us to two islands and two beaches (highly recommended).

Russell and I were very lucky in our timing - we visited right before the tourist rush of the holiday season. For us, the streets were practically empty - although I have heard that during peak season it can be crazy crowded - and pousada prices were pretty low (R$60 for a private room, including breakfast). Besides visiting the water slide and going on a schooner tour, we walked the historic center and saw some beautiful churches:

Capela de Nossa Senhora das Dores - Paraty, Brazil
Capela de Nossa Senhora das Dores - Paraty, Brazil: Built in 1800 for the colonial elite. Renovated in 1901.
Matriz nossa Senhora dos Remédios - Paraty, Brazil
Matriz nossa Senhora dos Remédios - Paraty, Brazil: Built in 1787 on the site of two 17th century churches. According to legend, the construction of the church was financed using pirate treasure found on Praia da Trindade.
Igreja Santa Rita - Paraty, Brazil
Igreja Santa Rita Panorama - Paraty, Brazil: Built in 1722 for freed mulattos ( persons of mixed black and European parentage).
There is also Igreja Nossa Senhora do Rosário e São Benedicto dos Homens Pretos: Built in 1725 by slaves, for slaves. It was renovated in 1857. Unfortunately we didn't have a chance to see this one.

I think two nights in Paraty was good enough for me. The couple we met there (a New Zealand fellow with his Brazilian/New Zealand wife) traveled with us to Trindade for the day before heading back to Paraty. For a lot of people Paraty is the perfect destination to hang out for a while since there is so much to do within reach of an easy bus ride.

Paraty is a great place to visit - historical, beautiful, easy to reach, and centrally located.

PS: After all the photobombing I did in NYC my karma finally caught up with me when I was photobombed by a dog! LOL!

Mayor of Rio Visits Complexo da Penha to Meet With Leaders

This is a good sign! Rio de Janeiro Mayor Eduardo Paes went to the recently invaded Complexo da Penha in Villa Cruzeiro to meet with 12 local leaders to discuss what social services residents feel should be made priorities in the wake of the R$400 million (US$231 million) that was just promised to Vila Cruzeiro. The top issues were health care, slope stabilization, and establishment of nurseries.

Read the full article on O Globo

Favela de Mandela Raided

Favela Mandela was raided by 50 police early this Friday morning. Fugitive and trafficker Eduardo da Penha Queiroz was arrested and a 12 gauge shotgun, 7.62 caliber ammunition, marijuana, crack, cheirinho da loló (a drug based on a mixture of ethyl alcohol or benzene, chloroform, ether (all of which are carcinogens) and essence of fruit), and two stolen motorcycles were seized.

Upon entry there was an intense gun fight between traffickers in the community and police on foot and in the air.

Nine other fugitives who had previously fled from Penha and Alemão were arrested during operation in Manguinhos the previous Thursday.

Read full article via O Globo

Thursday, December 9, 2010

Paraty Natural Water Slide - Cachoeira do Tobogã

Swinging brigde over Cachoeira Tobogã in Penha/Paraty, Brazil
Swinging bridge at Cachoeira do Tobogã
Finally it is time to write about my mini-vacation. Russell and I had originally planned on going to the north of Brazil, Jericoacoara specifically, but decided that instead of spending hundreds on a plane ticket, we would just take a cheap bus to nearby Paraty and spend our money on good food and activities.

Upon our arrival in Paraty, after dropping our things at a pousada and grabbing a bite to eat, we headed to Cachoeira do Tobogã - a natural water slide that I has read is a must see when visiting Paraty.

See my photos of Cachoeira do Tobogã on Flickr

Cachoeira do Tobogã is 10km inland from Paraty and was featured in the film The Emerald Forest. To get there you can catch any bus marked "Penha" (R$2.60, 20-30 minutes) from the Paraty bus station. The ride there is beautiful and when we went everything was green and fresh. On the way up you will see the entrance on the right-hand side of the road. You can't miss it - there is a large poster with a photo of the falls next to a white church on a rock on the right and a covered bus stop on the left.

After walking down a path for 5 minutes we arrived at the bottom of the Cachoeira do Tobogã water slide - a big deep pool with a few people perched around it taking photos of the locals. About the locals: Do not do what they do! These guys go surfing down the slide on their feet often doing jumps and spins. Russell and I stuck to going down seated, which was enough fun for me.

Cachoeira Tobogã Waterfall in Penha/Paraty, Brazil
Under the waterfall at Cachoeira do Tobogã
There is the bottom pool which you splash your way into from the slide and there is a top pool. The top pool was shollow enough for young kids and older couples to lounge in and there is a nice waterfall that runs into the pool. This is the waterfall that you can hide under as water cascades down around you blocking you from view. Rumor has it that this is where slaves would hide for weeks as they tried to escape their colonial masters.

I noticed that many people just hung around the two main pools and slide, but we decided to go up the path a little further (and across the kind of scary swinging bridge) to explore and were rewarded with clear swimming holes and nobody else around. We took some time to lay on the warm rocks and take in the sounds of the running water and the singing birds. Although we had the place to ourselves I imagine that during peak season things can get pretty packed since Bar do Tarzan is nearby (which was closed while we were there).

Cachoeira do Tobogã was extremely refreshing, rejuvenating, and relaxing. It is an easy location to reach, it is extremely beautiful, and the water slide is a blast! I highly recommend it to anyone who visits Paraty.

Note: There are also a lot of lovely pousadas nearby if you are looking to get out of Paraty's touristy colonial center for a night

Cachoeira Tobogã Waterfall in Penha/Paraty, Brazil
Panorama of the Cachoeira do Tobogã pool

Monday, December 6, 2010

Brazilian Bikini Shopping in Cabo Frio

Praia do Forte - Cabo Frio, Brazil
Praia do Forte - Cabo Frio, Brazil
I had been looking for some good, reasonably priced bikinis for a while. C&A has decently priced bikinis, but last time I bought from there the plastic snap on top broke within a week (I tied it together with hemp string to save it) and all boutiques in Icaraí are ridiculously expensive. Who pays R$250+ (~US$150) for a bikini anyway? Aquamar, the cheapest bikini boutique around, is where I got my last few bikinis, but when I went there with Russell's dad he laughed at the prices (R$110) and said I could find the exact same thing in Cabo Frio for a fraction of the price. I had been wanting to go to Cabo Frio anyway, so Russ and I took a day trip there to get in some beach time as well as bikini shopping!

Photos: Cabo Frio day trip on Flickr

On the way there we stopped to grab some amazing pastels. I got what I like to call a Margarita Pastel - mozzarella cheese, oregano, and tomato - all inside a thin crispy crust...mmmmm.... Plus whenever we have pastels we always get a caldo de cana (sugarcane juice). So good. After our quick stop we were on our way to Cabo Frio.

Cabo Frio, Brazil
Enjoying the Cabo Frio riverfront
When we arrived we immediately hit the beach for sun and swim. The water was clear and warm like most beaches here. We only stayed at the beach for 45 minutes before we got hungry again and grabbed some sardinhas (photo) - little deep fried sardines - and beer. After out mini fish feast it was time for shopping!

I was expecting bikini prices here to be low, but I never though they would be as low are they were. Only R$15 (US$9) per piece! I was able to buy one black top and three matching bottoms for R$60, cheaper than one bikini at Aquamar - amazing! Now I have a handful of Brazilian Bikinis to keep me satisfied for a while. I really wish I would have bought more though, especially another top - I have not found a top that is so cute and comfortable at the same time.

Now you know: if you ever go to Rio and are looking for a bikini, head to Cabo Frio. It is an easy drive or bus ride away and a very nice day trip!

Heavy Rain in Rio de Janeiro Floods Streets

Flooding in Icaraí, Niterói
Flooded street in Icaraí
Last night, after Fluminense (a Rio soccer team) won the Brazilian Soccer Championship, the festivities were cut short due to an incredible storm that came through Rio de Janeiro. Within an hour streets around Rio and Niterói were flooded with up to three feet of water (between 7pm and midnight over six inches of rain fell in some areas).

Russell and I were walking down the beach from his dad's house to his mom's house when the rain started. We ended up stranded at his mom's house for the night because the entire road in front of of the complex was flooded - not even buses were passing, and that is saying a lot because buses will generally go anywhere regardless of weather. A few drivers tried to go through the rising water - all except for a large truck were stopped in their tracks and the drivers had to get help from passer-bys (sometimes offering money) to push their cars out of the water. Some of the cars that were parked on the street are surely destroyed. One brand new Honda was covered over its tires with water and when that large truck passed by it began floating on top of the massive wave that was created.

Many people waded through the flooded street to get to wherever they needed to be. Some women were up to their waists in water. The most heart-breaking thing came when a family of homeless people begged and pleaded for shelter under the building, but they were turned away by the doorman. I can't even begin to imagine what it must be like being homeless, in a downpour, wet from head to toe, and no place dry to lay your head down. I also wonder if any favelas fell.

December is the month of pulverization for favelas. This time last year is when the state of Rio was in a state of emergency due to all of the landslides that killed hundreds and blocked roads for weeks - they are still dealing with these landslides today, we saw many of them on our way to Paraty. Everybody is saying that yesterday's storm was just an introduction for what is to come.

Lightning in Icaraí
Lightning in Icaraí
On the bright side, all of the lightning was very beautiful. There were strikes at least every 20 seconds. There was a huge amount of lightning all night long. I have never seen a lightning storm last for so long. It was incredibly beautiful and only added to the power of the storm.

There is supposed to be another one coming tonight... I don't know if it will be as strong. Rather than the normally hot days and rainy nights, yesterday's storm came after 3-4 dry days and nights, so I think all the rain from the previous days were just packed into one punch. I guess I'll find out tonight! Pray for all the people on the hills and on the street.

Friday, December 3, 2010

Research shows that 88% of Rio's population support the measures being taken against trafficking

Article translated from O Globo



A survey by Ibope Intelligence shows that 88% of the population supports the measures being taken against drug trafficking. According to the survey, 49% of respondents said they fully endorse the measures against trafficking, other 7% do not approve and or disapprove, and 3% disagree with the actions.

Thousand residents in the state, all aged above 16 years were interviewed between 27 and 29 November. The margin of error is three percentage points.

The vast majority of people who participated in the survey also said they were confident in the ability of police to repress the action of the outlaws: 82% believe the police are capable.

About the feeling of safety with measures adopted, 41% of people said they feel safe against 30% who say they are unsafe. Another 26% said they feel neither safe nor unsafe.

The research also revealed that 70% believed that Rio will be a safer place by the end of the operation against trafficking. For 17%, the stock does not make a difference. Another 6% said the river will become more insecure.

About the difficulty of moving through the city because of violence, 69% reported having faced the problem and 31% claimed to have had some difficulty.

The vast majority (93%) of respondents supported the participation of the armed forces. The residents of Rio are also optimistic about the city's image abroad after the operation: 69% believe that the image is better (and 22% believe it will be much better), 15% believe that the picture will get worse and 11% think that it makes no difference.

The interviewees, however, said they believed the events would hinder the achievement of the 2014 World Cup and Olympic Games 2016: 54% of people believe to be harmful (including 18% say it hurt a lot) and 41% trust that no harm at all.

Full research report, pdf

Sunday, November 28, 2010

Complexo Alemão in Rio de Janeiro Has Been Taken

Complexo Alemão in Rio de Janeiro Has Been Taken. Via O Globo
Unsurprisingly, the PM moved in to Complexo Alemão, Rio de Janeiro this morning. What does suprise me is the fact that there was very little resistance from the favela community that is considered the trafficking stronghold of the city. Police raided the German Complex at 8am on Sunday, with about 2,600 men, and around 10 am had already reached the top of the hill. [See the series of events in photos]

I was seriously expecting a huge battle to take place when the PM finally made their move into Alemão. It was suspected that over 600 traffickers were hiding in Alemão. The right hand man of one of the traficante leaders came down from the hill to turn himself in after Rio’s authorities had urged the hundreds of traffickers hiding in Alemão to “surrender with arms in the air by sunset on Friday.” I wonder how long it will take for other gang members in jail to badly hurt of kill him for his betrayal.

Also on Saturday many of Alemão's residents took to the streets with white flags and tee-shirts proclaiming PEACE. These are the people who are really suffering. Many of them have been without water and electricity for over 24 hours. Some residents fled from their homes in fear of the imminent confrontation. Anything, everything. and anyone going in and out of Alemão was thoroughly searched and residents were prohibited from returning to their homes in the hours before the raid began. And you thought the TSA was bad...

But now Alemão has been taken by the state and a search of all homes has been issued. There were very few arrests and so far I've only heard of one death. This means that the traffickers have fled - yet again. I've heard many people in Niterói suspect that they will inevitably flee here, to Ntierói, and also to São Gonçalo. Very unfortunate indeed. Residents of Alemão have said that they have seen traffickers fleeing through the sewer line installed by the works of the Growth Acceleration Program (CAP), which in my view show that they are getting pretty desperate to have to resort to fleeing through sewage lines - extremely disgusting and full of terrible bacteria!

Right now there is tranquility in Complexo Alemão, but it seems people are still on edge because of the ease at which Alemão was taken. Even spokesperson for the Bureau of Drug Enforcement said, "The environment is quiet. Disturbingly quiet."

What is amazing is the amount of support the police are getting from the general public. It seems like all of Rio is ready for a change. The middle class is tired of the violence that occasionally spreads into their communities, and I get the feeling that favela residents are also ready for a new page in their history.

I can't say that I support the invasion of favelas, especially since it just seems to be transplanting social issues from one area to the next, but I can cay that I support the UPP program. To be clear I do not think that any of this is happening because the government really cares about these people or is doing them a favor, I believe that these people are now seen as consumers. Pacified favelas now have to pay bills to legitimate electric providers instead of paying gangsters in the informal economy for stolen electricity. Even McDonald's is considering opening up shop inside one favela. Vila Cruzeiro was just promised a R$400 million (US$231 million) to build infrastructure, a shopping mall, 47 new shops, and a park with space for a cinema. A wave of social services has been promised to Alemão as well.

I just hope that this can last. I think it gives hope to people that their communities can be better and that they don't have to be run by gangsters. I hope that even though many traffickers fled, they are loosing some of their power, slowly but surely. There will always be drugs and guns, but now it is being forced to be underground rather than flagrantly out in the open. At least now kids are not idolizing traffickers with unlimited guns, drugs, and girls that hangs out on the corner every day (not to mention their mini-mansion hideout) .

Now all I can do is wait and see where the fleeing traffickers turn up.

Friday, November 26, 2010

Vacation!

And what about my vacation?! We decided to wait until Sunday to leave so we can hang out at the beach with Russell's brother and sister a bit. Also, I want to climb the mountain in Itacoatiara this weekend. Then we will be able to see what the situation looks like after Saturday - when we expect the peak activity to occur - since wherever we go we have to go through Rio, and I don't want to get stuck on any shut-down roads.

Complexo Alemão Access Points Surrounded

Trafficker escape route from Villa Cruzeiro to Complexo do Alemåno. Via O Globo
Like I said earlier, Military Police (PM) unit, BOPE, entered Villa Cruzeiro, along with a few hundred Army soldiers and their tanks. Over 200 gangsters fled through the forest into Complexo Alemão, which is where other gangsters from previously pacified favelas are suspected to have fled as well. Villa Cruzeiro "belongs to the state," as the PM announced on TV.

Complexo Alemão is now a major hotspot. The federal government has given 800 more Navy troops to the city of Rio to use in the operation - but the PM and BOPE are still running the show. The main access points to Complexo Alemão are surrounded by military forces, but they are not entering - yet. People I talk to here say the police won't enter - but I think they will, probably tomorrow. Why would they take personnel from the Army and bring in tanks if they weren't planning something big. If they take Alemão they will be making a huge statement. And if they are eventually able to pacify it and send in UPP - wow - that would be unheard of.

I am suspicious of UPP, but I've heard a lot of good stories coming out of pacified favelas. The process of pacification - mainly the invasion part of it - is what can be terrible. But the question becomes: what about after 2016?

Great Favela Pacification Video via Al Jazeera

Peace in the favelas - PEOPLE AND POWER - Al Jazeera English

Thursday, November 25, 2010

I almost forgot....

HAPPY THANKSGIVING!!!!!!!

It is difficult to remember purely American holidays while out of the country. I hope everyone has a great time and is thankful for all the blessings in their life.

Rio Conflict Makes US News

RIO DE JANEIRO — Police raided gang-ruled shantytowns Wednesday, setting off clashes that killed 14 people as authorities try to halt a wave of violent crime that has rattled rich and poor alike in a city that Brazil hopes to make a showplace for the 2016 Olympics.

Police invaded the Vila Cruzeiro community and surrounding slums early in the day, engaging in intense gunbattles. Twenty-five people were detained.

"We didn't start this war," police spokesman Henrique de Lima Castro Saraiva said. "We were provoked. But we will emerge victorious."

Over the past three days, 21 people had been killed and about 150 arrested during sweeps by 17,500 officers, Lima Castro said. Two officers suffered minor wounds in Wednesday's fighting.

A wave of recent gang violence has shaken Rio. Authorities say gangs are lashing back in response to a law-enforcement drive to regain control of territory the past two years. The police force has been assigned an additional 1,200 officers to fend off attacks.

"We are stepping up our efforts," Lima Castro said. "We will be even more trenchant tomorrow."

Most of the violence was concentrated in the city's poor northern and western neighborhoods. Robber gangs have erected roadblocks where they have stopped cars and buses and set 29 vehicles on fire since the clashes began Sunday. One man was killed Wednesday when he refused to stop at a roadblock.

Police said they had not yet identified all the dead or determined what connection, if any, they had to drug trafficking or other crimes.

"Bystanders may be affected," Lima Castro said.

As bodies arrived at the Getulio Vargas state hospital in northern Rio, desperate relatives insisted their loved ones were innocent victims and lashed out at police and drug dealers alike.

"Congratulations, congratulations for killing another innocent victim," screamed a distraught man who identified himself as the father of 14-year-old Rosangela Barbosa Alves. Barbosa was killed by a stray bullet at her home in Vila Cruzeiro.

The father did not want to give his own name for fear of retaliation.

"There are three children (who were shot and killed) ... and no one does anything," added a weeping female relative of Barbosa who also declined to be identified. "The criminals are never killed."

The relatives of another victim, identified by the health department as Rafael Felipe Goncalves, 29, wrapped his body in a blanket and carried it down a steep slope leading to the hospital. He had been shot in the head and was dead on arrival.

"He is not a criminal," cried a man who identified himself as the victim's brother.

Security officials say the roadblock robberies and other gang violence are aimed at bringing a halt to a police campaign to force the groups out of the city's numerous shantytowns, where they have long ruled with impunity.

Thirteen shantytowns have been freed of gangs over the past two years. The plan is to liberate 40 – a small fraction of Rio's more than 1,000 slums – in time for the 2014 World Cup.

Police said a note found on a burning bus Wednesday warned that if law enforcement continues to push drug dealers out of the slums, Rio won't be able to host the Olympics.

Rio state Public Safety Director Jose Beltrame said security forces will not be deterred.

"This is not an easy task, but it is also an opportunity to build a better city," Beltrame told Globo TV on Wednesday. "We are not giving back one millimeter. Their threat shows we are on the right path. They're being affected."

Rio's governor, Sergio Cabral, urged calm.

"What the bandits want is panic," he told CBN radio Wednesday. "We are facing a desperate reaction from criminals. But we are not going to despair."

Police have responded to the roadblock robberies by deploying riot officers on expressways into the city of 6 million people and sending patrols into more than 27 gang-controlled shantytowns to find gang members they hold responsible for the attacks.

Violence has plagued Rio for decades, but most has been contained within the slums that cling to the hillsides. Now, a few of the recent attacks have spilled into middle-class and wealthier neighborhoods closer to the beach, spreading fears that police are losing control of the city.

"The scary part is that now it's getting close to us. Before the violence was always far away," said Olga Silveira, who was milling around a plaza in the wealthy Ipanema neighborhood where police on Wednesday blew up a large, empty wooden box mistakenly feared to contain explosives. "Now we're feeling it on our flesh. The criminals have discovered the power they have and they want to show it."

Article via HuffingtonPost

---

They want to pacify 40 favelas by 2014 while thousands still are gang hideouts. All they are doing is transplanting the problem away from where these international events will take place. Then what happens in 2016 after the Olympics are over? This is not a permanent or sustainable solution, in my opinion.

War in Rio's Favelas

Bandits fleeing Vila Cruzeiro towards Complexo do Alemão. Via O Globo
In Rio at least 17 schools, several universities, and 12 nursery have been shut down due to the increased violence in Rio and the surrounding area. In Rio's favelas there is an all out war going on... and it is all being broadcast live on TV. Seriously, there are hundreds of bandits running around in the hills that surround the favelas all with giant guns. The police shoot them from the military helicopter all while the news helicopter catches it on film. I have never seen anything like this.

What we are watching right now is the invasion by Special Operations Battalion (BOPE) of the Vila Cruzeiro Favela. The bandits fled towards Complexo do Alemão. Whereas the gangs used to fire upon each other when one rival entered the others territory, now the gangs have joined forces and can flee between favelas. It began when 150 military police officers from the BOPE and 30 Marines with painted faces, entered the Vila Cruzeiro, in Penha, on Thursday in the early afternoon. Six armored vehicles, the same as the vehicles used in Iraq, are being used to transport troops to the favela as well. Over 100 municipal police were also sent into the favela. This is just one police operation out of many that have occurred since the police forced began their retaliation early Wednesday morning.

Residents, especially those that live in favelas (most favelados are good, hard-working, honest people, by the way), have barricaded themselves in their homes or have left home all together. Stray bullets are a sad reality of urban warfare.

So far 27 people have been killed. Police said they had not yet identified all the dead or determined what connection, if any, they had to drug trafficking or other crimes, but Military Police Colonel Lima Castro did warn that, "Bystanders may be affected."

I left the house today without fear because I live in a safe neighborhood, but there are heavily armed police everywhere as people stop at pubs to watch the violence happening across the bay.

Wednesday, November 24, 2010

Map of the Violence in Rio de Janeiro

Below is a map of the violence in Rio de Janeiro. Click here for a more detailed map.


Visualizar Ataques no Rio a e reação da polícia em um mapa maior



Blue: Bus fire
Red: Car fire
Green: Attack on a Military Police booth
Light Blue: Death
Yellow: Suspected bomb
Purple: Arrest
Pink: Police reinforcements sent

Bandits Attack Rio de Janeiro, Set Fire to Busses

Last night Russell and I were told not to leave our house because there would be muggings and attacks at night. Our inside source was right. This morning we woke up to breaking news - there were attacks  in Rio de Janeiro as well as the nearby cities of São Gonçalo and Niterói. Thankfully the community within Niterói where I live - Icaraí - was not targeted.

I've been reading about what happened on O Globo, the major Brazilian new outlet. From what I can tell so far here is a basic time line of what's been going on:

Shots were fired as bandits trawled and set fire to cars - Photo CléberJúnior
Throughout the day this past Sunday, "bandits," as they are called, continued with their series of car thefts and muggings in Rio de Janeiro city, giving the general population in Rio a little scare. Basically what happens is a group of bandits come out of the favelas with their giant guns and shut down the road. They then trawl the jammed traffic for valuables and cash (which is why they are referred to as arrastões, or trawlers, here). Some people flee their cars and take shelter in nearby businesses, others wait in their cars and hand over all valuables. Never try to outsmart the bandits, they have no problem putting those massive guns to use - seriously.

By Sunday afternoon the first reports of cars being torched began hitting the news as car thefts and trawling continued.

On Monday morning five armed men torched three vehicles and attacked a Military Police car. Soon after, the same men are suspected of attacking a Military Police booth in Irajá with machine guns.

The Military Police began a series of raids in Rio's favelas in th e very early hours of Tuesday morning after four more cars were torched and another Military Police booth was attacked. Later in the afternoon intense fighting between Military Police and bandits erupted in the streets shutting down Avenida Nossa Senhora da Penha in Rio. It was reported that the Military Police were fired upon when they arrived after receiving a complaint in the area, but it is hard to know what really happens in these firefights.

Military Police continued their raid of Rio's favelas on Tuesday. Eight criminals were arrested, two traffickers killed, two men arrested, and two children taken into custody. Explosive devices, jugs of gasoline, weapons (including shotguns, a revolver, and some handguns), motorcycles, marijuana, cocaine, and crack were also seized. The military and municipal police forces announce that they will continue the raids until a sense of security is restored to the people of Rio.

A bus that was torched on Wednesday morning / Photo: Eliezer Bridges
Last night and into this morning more vehicles were set ablaze. So far, at least ten cars, a van, and five buses have been torched since the latest early dawn attacks began. Four people were taken to the hospital when a van was set on fire, leaving the driver and passengers with severe burns to their legs. Others were injured when a bus waiting in traffic was set on fire early this morning. The violence also spread beyond Rio de Janeiro into the nearby cities of São Gonçalo and Niterói, where a handful of cars were torched. Thankfully the community within Niterói where I live - Icaraí - was not targeted. Russell and I also had forewarning that violence would enter into Niterói and were warned to stay home.

In response, the Military Police has called all officers to duty, not allowing those already working to go home and calling in all off-duty officers. All administrative duties were called off and every officer is being sent into the field in order to prevent further violence. Unfortunately, violence has only escalated as the Military Police have killed at least 10 people in multiple favela raids this morning, leading to the first deaths in the conflict. The military and municipal police have also joined forces throughout the state of Rio in hopes of preventing more attacks.

Today Secretariat of Intelligence Security Bureau announced that for the first time in 16 years, the two major criminal factions in Rio teamed up. The Rocinha gang (from Rocinha favela) joined forces with their rival gang from Complexo do Alemão (another favela). Their goal: destabilizing the primary public safety program in the state - the deployment of Police Pacification Units (UPP - Unidades de Polícia Pacificadora). Security secretary Jose Mariano Beltrame responded by promising to double the force of the Military Police and warned that, "those who cross the path of the UPP will be run over."

UPDATE: Another bus has been set on fire. There have been 150 people arrested so far. The death count for today is now at 13. Among the dead is a 14 year old girl, victim of a stray bullet in the slums of Grotão in Penha.

According to Military Police Colonel Lima de Castro, some 17,500 police are on standby throughout the metropolitan area.

"We did not start this war. We were provoked into it and we will be victorious," said Col. Castro.

-----

Favela invasion and pacification has become the preferred technique of the Military Police in an effort to rid Rio of violence in preparation for the 2014 World Cup and 2016 Olympic Games. The Military Police special forces, Batalhão de Operações Policiais Especiais (Special Police Operations Battalion), commonly know by its acronym BOPE, storm the favela, often with helicopters and on foot. Traffickers either flee or stay and fight the BOPE creating an urban war zone that often leaves innocent bystanders in the crossfire. After violence calms down BOPE moves out as the UPP (Police Pacification Unit) moves in. Basically a heavily armed office now takes the place of the heavily armed gang member. These have been many success stories out of favelas that have been pacified, although there is still widespread anger about the takeover and occupation process. One major problem arises when you consider that many traffickers flee before or during the invasion, thus transplanting rather than solving the issue.

Thursday, November 18, 2010

Favela Blogs

Today I set up a few Google Alerts (favela, Rio de Janeiro, pacification, homeless) to be sent to my inbox. I did this so I can keep up to date on all things favela, which I am hoping will be beneficial to my thesis. While I was setting up my alerts I came across these two really great blogs about favela life.

Check them out:
  • Homeless in Brazil: By Daphnie Carter who spends her months between California and Brazil. She blogs about the issues facing the street children in Rio de Janeiro, writing that, "Their situation (along with homeless kids everywhere) is clearly unjust, and an umbrella-range of irresponsible adults, from all levels of society, are to blame for the cruel lifestyle that these children are "living" in such conditions on the streets." This blog also has some good video and outside links.
  • Life in Rocinha: A guy who lives in Rocinha (I believe he is a favela tour operator). Basically reading an insiders perspective, a nice supplement to my own outsider perspective.

Tuesday, November 16, 2010

Beautiful Rio de Janeiro Sunset

"The best thing about Niterói is the view of Rio." This is a commonly said around here and it is really true. I want to share this sunset with you so you can see for yourself. Click on the photos for more details.

Rio de Janeiro Sunset
Father and son fishing

Rio de Janeiro Sunset
Walking the beach at sunset.

Rio de Janeiro Sunset
The Christ and the Museu de Arte Contemporânea (MAC) lit up at sunset.

Rio de Janeiro Sunset
A couple walks the beach at sunset.

Rio de Janeiro Sunset
Sugar Loaf, Corcovado Mountain (the Christ is covered by clouds) and the MAC at sunset.

Rio de Janeiro Twilight
The moon over Rio de Janeiro at twilight.

Thursday, November 11, 2010

Slackline With A Homeless Family

BOPE occupies a favela in Tijuca, photo by Max Coelho/BOPE.
The amount of homeless in Icaraí has drastically increased since my last two visits in 2008 and 2009.  From what I understand, Rio won hosting duties for the World Cup and Olympics and now the government has begun Favela Pacification - favelas are invaded and occupied by police forces. Sometimes there can be all out war between gangs and military police but often war lords and drug and gun traffickers flee into the cities surrounding Rio. Basically the homeless, as well as war lords and drug and arms traffickers, are being swept out of Rio and into the surrounding cities, such as here in Niterói.

[Favela Pacification Spreads to Tijuca]

Homeless Family
The girls go for a dip with the baby after playing on the slackline.

Russell and I are very popular on the beach when we do slackline. We are equal opportunity and all different types of kids, from high class kids to favela kids, come and want to try the slackline. So when a homeless family set up camp under a shade tree next to us, their kids obviously wanted to come and play - and they did.

Homeless Family
The social gap between couple walking and the homeless family is palpable.
Our conversation:

Are you a gringa?
   Yes, yes I am.
Laughter
Where are you from?
   America
Germany?
   No, The United States of America.
Oh, Germany.
   No, the US.
Germany must be nice.
   Yes, Germany is nice.

Deep, I know. But they didn't seem to know of the US - Russell even told them and they still didn't get it.

The family seems to consist of one older man (certainly drunk or on drugs, or both [read about the crack epidemic among the homeless]), a woman my age or a little older (she seemed to be in charge of things), two male teenagers, three younger girls and two younger boys, and one baby.

They all had giant Coca-Cola bottles to drink from. I often see homeless people with Coke, but never see them with water. Why? Coke is cheaper than water. How can that be, right? I know. It's outrageous. Not to mention how may health and dental problems arise from drinking sugar filled Coke as a substitute for water.

Kids on the Slackline
Slackline on the beach.
It really sucks that instead of getting these kids off the streets and into school (which in Brazil is mandatory and free) the government instead is just ignoring the problem and transplanting these social and structural issues from Rio into surrounding cities. I don't think invasion and occupation are long term solutions - but hey, at least Rio will be looking good in the harsh international spotlight (note the touch of sarcasm in my voice).

Tuesday, November 9, 2010

Amazonas Suffer Record Drought

Boats stranded on the Rio Negro river bed, photo by Rodrigo Baleia.
According to local authorities, 27 of the 62 municipalities of the Amazonas state have declared a state of emergency. The local population that mainly relies on fluvial transportation is currently suffering a shortage in food, medicines, fuel and drinkable water.

According to Daniel Oliveira, a hydrology expert with the CPRM, Brazil’s hydrological service, the central part of the river is still navigable, but some of the branches and effluents have dried out, revealing sandbanks and leaving villagers whose houses used to be on the riverfront, stranded and isolated. The risk of dislocation for fishermen who used to fish in front of their houses is also great.

“Even in the navigable parts, the consequences on the population are important. A five day trip now takes seven days, and has to be done with more detours. As a consequence, more fuel is used, the price increases, and so does the price of other commodities”, says Oliveira.

The drought also has other environmental consequences, with landslides near the riverbanks in São Paulo de Olivença, where according to the local authorities, the front of the city collapsed, affecting more than 200 houses and the Amazon forest left more susceptible to the increasing risk of fire.

Rio Negro's banks are drying up, photo by Rodrigo Baleia.
The record drought is not an isolated incident, though. With major drought in 2005 and a historic flood in 2009, the Amazon River has been experiencing rapid and extreme variations over the past few years. “The Amazonas state is going through a permanent emergency situation and this is very serious”, says Rafael Cruz from Greenpeace Brazil.

Cruz continued; “It’s too early to say that all this is provoked by global warming but one cannot ignore the possibility. If this is not climate change right now, it at least gives us the sensation of what it will be if we don’t limit carbon emissions.”

The drought comes at a time when climate change has gained renewed political attention with the unexpectedly strong results of the Green Party candidate Marina Silva at the first round of the Presidential elections and the attempt of the two other candidates, Dilma Rousseff and José Serra to appeal to her electorate even if some issues, like the Belmonte dam remain controversial.

For now, President Lula has reaffirmed a commitment to climate change in view of the next U.N. climate summit in Cancun in late November, with Brazil already agreeing to a fifty percent emission reduction in 2050. Yet after the failure of the Copenhagen summit to deliver a binding international agreement to cut greenhouse emissions, expectations for Cancun are low.

[Full Article via The Rio Times]

Can you believe that 50% of Congress, since the elections, will be made up of climate skeptics.... I need to go see the Amazon before it is gone.

Thursday, November 4, 2010

A Glimpse Into The Future

In a sign that combat and the 2012 elections rather than compromise could mark the next two years, GOP leader Sen. Mitch McConnell on Thursday called for Senate votes to repeal or erode Obama's signature health care law, to cut spending and to shrink government.

"The only way to do all these things it is to put someone in the White House who won't veto any of these things," McConnell said in a speech to the conservative Heritage Foundation.
[full article]

Imagine Republicans taking back the White House. We have just been told their master plan: fuck things up as much as they can for the next two years, then privatize everything in 2014 if they make it to the White House. George Bush recently said that his greatest failure as president was not privatizing social security. I just really don't understand how so many people can vote for a party who out-rightly says that their goal is basically to make the rich richer. And it is not just Republicans - it is those Tea Party-ers too!  OK, fine, Democrats as well. :) And this is a huge problem for all of us. Too many people have been bought off by giant corporations and powerful lobbies, and it sucks that we sit back and let it happen. I feel like I am watching our government structure deteriorate, and it seems so obvious to me.

On the bright side, I still have hope that I am wrong!

Tuesday, November 2, 2010

US vs. Brazil Elections

I am not the only one who has noticed the perfection of Brazil's election system. Hundreds of international observers were sent throughout the country to learn from Brazil's example and is often cited as one of the top voting systems in the world. But right now it is the the people of the US who are voting. Well, ok, only some people in the US are voting - the US does not require its citizens to vote. This means that likely voters are the people who can afford to leave work. I know employers have to allow employees time off to vote, but it is unpaid time off, and there are a lot of people out there who just can't afford that. Others just don't have the time between work, school, and hobbies. Wouldn't it be nice if we could vote on a day when many of us already rest, like maybe a weekend? And then there is all of the messy aftermath of elections - we all remember the 2000, and even the 2004, presidential election fiasco...

Dilma Rousseff beats Jose Serra in Brazil Elections
Dilma Rousseff Beats Jose Serra in Brazil Elections
Brazil has perfected the art of elections. Firstly, voting is mandatory. If you don't vote, you can receive a fine and can be prohibited from obtaining a passport and sometimes even a license. Why is it important for everyone to vote? Right now I am following the US elections online and all I am reading about is last minute drives to get people out to vote. This wastes time, resources, and energy that could be better used by focusing on the candidates and the issues - not making sure more Republicans show up than Democrats. This is also important because in the past, groups (and individuals) have invested in campaigns to keep the opposition from voting. We will never have a government that is of the people, by the people, and for the people, until the US making voting a requirement.

And what is up with the Electoral College system in the US? It's archaic! Why don't we follow Brazil's lead and requite a 50% plus 1 majority win. This way there is never another occurrence of the guy who American's prefer (Gore won the popular vote, remember) loosing to the guy Congress prefers (Bush won the Electoral College count). Unlike the US, Brazil has many different political parties, although the current favorites are the Worker's Party (Partido dos Trabalhadores, PT) and the Brazilian Social Democracy Party (Partido da Social Democracia Brasileira, PSDB). The recent election saw the unexpected showing of Green Party supporters and no candidate scored enough votes to win the majority. In this predicament the top two candidates have a run-off.

The beauty of this system is that if, for example, say there is a Republican, an Independent, and a Democrat running a race in Florida. The Independent candidate will siphon off votes from the Democrat candidate, giving Republicans a much easier road to victory. This leads to political jostling behind the scenes, invites corruption, and discourages voters.

In Brazil this very situation occurred in the recent presidential elections. Like I said, the Green Party candidate siphoned off a good chunk of votes from outgoing President Lula's Worker's Party. The run-off took place this past Sunday, nearly a month after the first election turn. This allowed the voters the opportunity to signal their approval of some Green Party policies without fear of causing another similar party a major loss. This also gave voters time to watch multiple televised debates between the two front-running candidates and get to know the candidates and their policies a little better. In the end Dilma Rousseff (better known simply as "Dilma", the hand-selected successor of current, and extremely popular, outgoing President Luiz Inácio Lula da Silva, known popularly as Lula).

Another thing - why do we hold elections on a Tuesday? A Tuesday? When everybody works, goes to school, picks up kids, runs errands, makes dinner, cleans the house.... Brazil holds their elections on Sunday. Families eat breakfast or lunch and go vote together. Many people vote before or after church while they are already out. Since school is not in session on Sundays, schools turn into easily accessible polling stations - solving the problem in the US of finding suitable polling locations. Lines are nearly non-existent and voting locations, even in poorer areas, and the voting machines are simple, easy to use, and reliable (no more hanging chads).

Oh and in Brazil they vote with numbers, which is why, in the photo above, Dilma's name has a 13 next to it. That is her number. When you arrive to the machine you type in her number and her name, photo, and details  pop up on the screen. If this is who you want to vote for you press the accept button and cast your vote. This didn't make sense to me at first, but now that it has been explained to me a few times, I am coming around to the idea.